CuisineAndalusian
Price
Neighborhoodcentro
Last verified

Why locals love it: It moved recently onto a small plaza it shares with the far more famous Casa El Pisto and gets walked straight past, though it has traded since 1972.

Tip: Lomo en manteca colorá is the plate to order; it has vanished from most tourist-facing menus in the city.

Location

Address: Plaza de San Miguel, Centro, 14002 Córdoba

Also in centro

Taberna La Montillana ★ 4.4

Andalusian€€centroMon-Thu 13:00-18:00, 20:00 until close; Fri-Sun 13:00 until close

Taberna La Montillana has stood beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and makes almost no concessions to the tourist trade a few streets south.

Why locals love it: It still carries mazamorra, the almond and bread soup that predates the tomato and fathered salmorejo, and almost no Judería kitchen makes it.

Tip: Order the mazamorra rather than the salmorejo; it is the older dish and the harder one to find.

Full centro food guide →

More hidden gems in Córdoba

Taberna Regina ★ 4.1

Andalusiansanta-marinaWed-Thu 12:30-16:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-16:00, 20:30-24:00; Sun 12:30-16:00; Mon-Tue closed

Taberna Regina has held its corner of a quiet Córdoba plaza since 1904, off every standard walking route and open mainly for the midday service.

Why locals love it: It sits on a small plaza that no standard Mezquita-to-Corredera walking route passes, and it trades mostly at lunchtime, five days a week.

Tip: The taberna shuts Monday and Tuesday and opens for dinner on Friday and Saturday only, so time a midweek visit for the midday service.

Bar Amapola ★ 4.0

Cocktail barribera

Bar Amapola opened on Córdoba's Paseo de la Ribera in December 2003 and is credited locally with reopening the riverfront to the city's nightlife.

Why locals love it: Cordópolis credits it as the first bar that turned the city back towards the Guadalquivir when it opened in December 2003, on a plaza with almost nothing else.

Tip: This is a drinks and music room rather than a kitchen, so eat first and come here afterwards.

Churrería Arroyo de San Andrés ★ 4.2

Street foodsan-andresTue-Fri 08:00-14:00; Sat-Sun 08:00-14:30; Mon closed

Churrería Arroyo de San Andrés fries jeringos in a residential corner of Córdoba, shutting by early afternoon six days a week and closed on Mondays.

Why locals love it: It is a morning-only, closed-Monday counter in a residential barrio, and its product is the Córdoba jeringo rather than the generic churro.

Tip: Everything is finished by 14:00, which is exactly why the Judería crowd never make it here.

Mercado del Marrubial ★ 4.2

Food hallsanta-marinaMon-Thu 08:00-14:00; Fri-Sat 08:00-14:30; Sun closed

The Marrubial is the biggest municipal market in Córdoba and sees no tourist trade at all, forty-five pitches including a stall selling only snails.

Why locals love it: It is the only market in Córdoba with a dedicated snail stall among its pitches, and it runs ten fishmongers in a landlocked city.

Tip: Go before 11:00 if you want the fish counters at their best; everything shuts at 14:00.

Caracoles La Magdalena ★ 4.5

Street foodcorrederaDaily 11:30-23:30, late February to late May only

Caracoles La Magdalena has sold snails from the same Córdoba plaza since 1965, under a fourth generation of the same family, for one season a year.

Why locals love it: It only trades for about three months a year, opening on Andalusia Day and shutting by late May, so most visitors are never in town for it.

Tip: The season opens on 28 February and closes in late May, and the stall vanishes entirely between times.

Taberna La Montillana ★ 4.4

Andalusian€€centroMon-Thu 13:00-18:00, 20:00 until close; Fri-Sun 13:00 until close

Taberna La Montillana has stood beside San Miguel in Córdoba since 1948 and makes almost no concessions to the tourist trade a few streets south.

Why locals love it: It still carries mazamorra, the almond and bread soup that predates the tomato and fathered salmorejo, and almost no Judería kitchen makes it.

Tip: Order the mazamorra rather than the salmorejo; it is the older dish and the harder one to find.

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