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AndalusianJuderia
El Caballo Rojo cooks the Mozarabic register of Córdoba a few steps from the Mezquita, a tapas bar below and dining rooms above on Cardenal Herrero.
OrderWhatever leans Mozarabic on the day's carta; this kitchen built its name on that revival.
TipIt is steps from the Patio de los Naranjos, so book ahead for lunch; the bar takes walk-ins that the dining rooms cannot.
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Spanish tapasJuderia
Bodegas Mezquita keeps its Céspedes kitchen open all day at the foot of the Mezquita, plating salmorejo, caliphal aubergines and Pedroches oxtail.
OrderBerenjenas califales, aubergines sauteed in Pedro Ximénez.
TipThe kitchen runs straight through from 12:30 to 23:30, which makes this the Judería fallback when everything else is between services.
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Spanish
El Envero cooks contemporary seasonal food out on Calle Teruel with a wine list renewed as often as the menu, a locals' room away from the Judería.
OrderThe daily suggestions; the carta itself changes twice a year with the seasons.
TipIt sits in a residential quarter north of the centre, so pair it with an evening walk along the Vial Norte rather than the monument circuit.
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AndalusianJuderia
Casa Palacio Bandolero fills a sixteenth-century palace facing the Mezquita, cooking white gazpacho, salmorejo and artichokes in Moriles wine.
OrderAlcachofas al Moriles, artichokes braised in the local wine.
TipThe two patios are the reason to come; on a summer night ask for the terrace beside the Mezquita entrance rather than an interior salon.
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Tasting menuPoniente
Terra Olea is chef Paco Villar's tasting-menu room in northwest Córdoba, three seasonal menus, Flos to Terra Olea, reading the province through its larder.
OrderCibarium, the middle menu, is the sensible first visit before committing to the full Terra Olea.
TipSole Torres runs the dining room; dinner is Friday and Saturday only, so any other day means the 14:00 lunch seating.
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AndalusianCorredera
La Cazuela de la Espartería cooks taberna standards beside Plaza de la Corredera, salmorejo, flamenquín, pisto and rabo de toro across its salons.
OrderThe pisto, the vegetable stew that Córdoba's tabernas use to measure each other.
TipSunday is lunch only and Saturday dinner starts at 20:30, an hour later than on weekdays, so check the clock before you set out.