Japanese izakaya
Photo: Japanexperterna.se · CC BY-SA 3.0

An izakaya is a Japanese drinking establishment that also serves food, structurally closer to a Spanish tapas bar than a restaurant. The food is otsumami (drinking food), designed to be eaten slowly across an evening of beer, sake, and shochu, in small plates ordered in waves. There is no fixed sequence of courses; diners order three or four things at a time, drink, then order more. A typical izakaya meal runs two to three hours and 12 to 25 dishes for a group of four.

The menu in an izakaya is the broadest in Japanese cuisine. It draws from yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), kushiage (deep-fried skewers), sashimi, simmered dishes (nimono), grilled fish, sunomono (vinegared salads), kara-age (Japanese fried chicken), oden (dashi-simmered stew), tofu preparations, agedashi, dashimaki tamago, potato salad, sausage, and a deep bench of rotating seasonal small plates. Most izakaya also do rice dishes and noodles as the closer of an evening (the 'shime' or finish: ochazuke, ramen, ramen-style yakisoba, or onigiri).

The izakaya is the most accessible Japanese restaurant format for travelers. The food covers the whole repertoire, the prices are honest (most plates 400 to 1200 yen), the staff are casual, and the drinking is integral, not optional. Most cities have izakaya alleys (yokocho) where the format originated as post-war drinking shacks: Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai, Yurakucho's gado-shita arches under the train tracks, Osaka's Hozenji Yokocho. The yokocho izakaya is the cheapest and the most atmospheric.

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Top picks

The best-scored japanese izakaya place in each of 12 cities.

Hozenji Yokocho Sake Counter ★ 4.8

¥¥ OsakaIzakayaDotonbori And Namba

The dozen izakayas lining Hozenji Yokocho are visible from Dotonbori but entered by only a fraction of tourists. Moss-covered walls and lanterns.

Why locals goThe alley is ten metres from Dotonbori canal but down a passage easily missed without looking for it.

Raku ★ 4.8

$$$ Las VegasJapanese Izakaya and RobataSpring Mountain Chinatown

Raku in Las Vegas is Mitsuo Endo's Chinatown izakaya since 2008, a binchotan-charcoal robata room that drew chefs from the Strip on their nights off.

OrderThe agedashi tofu, made in-house daily, and a run of robata skewers picked at the counter.

TipBooking is essential; the room is small and the line cooks slow when the counter fills. After-hours kitchen runs to 03:00.

Two Ten Jack ★ 4.8

$$ NashvilleJapanese izakayaEast NashvilleUntil Sun-Thu 22:00, Fri-Sat 23:00

Patrick Burke's Eastland Avenue ramen and izakaya counter in East Nashville serves the city's reliable late-night bowl: tonkotsu, miso, karaage and sake.

TryTonkotsu ramen and izakaya plates

TipFriday and Saturday kitchen runs until 23:00; happy hour 16:00-18:00 covers $5 small plates and discounted sake.

Hôntô ★ 4.8

$$$ BrisbaneJapanese IzakayaFortitude Valley

Hôntô is the moody basement izakaya through a black door on Alden Street. Otsumami small plates, yakitori, deep sake list, open Mon-Sun late.

SignatureOtsumami small plates, Yakitori skewers, Sashimi selection

Rintaro ★ 4.8

$$ San FranciscoJapanese izakaya

Rintaro in San Francisco is Sylvan Mishima Brackett's Mission izakaya, with handmade soba, a robatayaki grill, and a sake list that pulls from small.

Why locals goMission izakaya from chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett; bookings are hard, but the bar room takes walk-ins and runs the full menu.

TipWalk in for the bar room at 18:00; the kitchen runs the full menu but you do not need a reservation.

Umami ★ 4.7

$$ PittsburghJapanese IzakayaLawrenceville

Umami on 38th Street in Lawrenceville serves izakaya skewers and ramen in Pittsburgh. A lantern-lit room with a koi pond patio off Butler Street.

OrderA spread of yakitori, a bowl of ramen and a Japanese highball.

TipThe koi pond patio is the seat. Late kitchen on weekends; walk-in friendly midweek.

UNI ★ 4.7

$$$$ Tasting $185 (omakase)BostonJapanese izakayaBack BayChef Ken Oringer

Ken Oringer's UNI inside the Eliot Hotel runs a contemporary Japanese izakaya and omakase counter in Boston's Back Bay since 2002, expanded in 2016.

Book2 weeks ahead

Kingyo Izakaya ★ 4.6

$$$ VancouverJapanese izakayaWest End

Kingyo Izakaya on Denman is Vancouver's reference modern izakaya since 2008, named one of Canada's best Japanese rooms by Air Canada's enRoute in 2014.

OrderStone-grilled gyu tan and buta kakuni, the kitchen's standout izakaya plates.

TipLunch walks in. Dinner books on OpenTable a week out; the chef's counter takes the omakase.

893 Ryotei ★ 4.6

€€€ BerlinJapanese IzakayaCharlottenburg

The Duc Ngo's 893 Ryotei on Berlin's Kantstrasse cooks Japanese-Peruvian izakaya plates and runs a sushi counter; the dining room serves until late.

OrderThe yellowtail sashimi with yuzu-truffle, the black-cod miso, and the chef sushi omakase.

TipBar counter for omakase is the best seating; book eight weeks ahead via the website.

Sushi Izakaya Gaku ★ 4.6

$$$ HonoluluJapanese IzakayaAla Moana

Sushi Izakaya Gaku on South King is the long-running Japanese izakaya in Honolulu with sashimi, robata grill plates and the cult-favourite buta no kakuni.

OrderThe chef's sashimi selection and the buta no kakuni braised pork.

TipReservations open one month ahead. Order the day's specials board first; chef cuts the best fish for early diners.

Izakaya Minato ★ 4.6

$$$ PortlandJapanese IzakayaEast Bayside

Izakaya Minato on Washington Avenue opened 2017 from Chef Thomas Takashi Cooke, with binchotan-grilled yakitori, donburi bowls and a deep sake list.

OrderA flight of yakitori from the charcoal grill, then the chicken karaage.

TipTuesday to Saturday 17:00-21:30. Resy reservations open 30 days ahead.

Euskalduna Studio 1 ★ ★ 4.6

€€€€ Tasting €155PortoJapanese izakayaChef Vasco Coelho Santos

Euskalduna Studio in Porto's Bonfim is chef Vasco Coelho Santos's eight-seat counter, a Michelin-starred izakaya-style tasting menu of fermentations.

OrderThe chef's surprise menu; trust the kitchen.

Book4 weeks ahead

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Eight seats only; book exactly four weeks ahead at 10:00.

Find a place

Hozenji Yokocho Sake Counter ★ 4.8

¥¥ OsakaIzakayaDotonbori And Namba

The dozen izakayas lining Hozenji Yokocho are visible from Dotonbori but entered by only a fraction of tourists. Moss-covered walls and lanterns.

Why locals goThe alley is ten metres from Dotonbori canal but down a passage easily missed without looking for it.

Raku ★ 4.8

$$$ Las VegasJapanese Izakaya and RobataSpring Mountain Chinatown

Raku in Las Vegas is Mitsuo Endo's Chinatown izakaya since 2008, a binchotan-charcoal robata room that drew chefs from the Strip on their nights off.

OrderThe agedashi tofu, made in-house daily, and a run of robata skewers picked at the counter.

TipBooking is essential; the room is small and the line cooks slow when the counter fills. After-hours kitchen runs to 03:00.

Raku (Spring Mountain) ★ 4.8

$$ Las VegasJapanese izakayaSpring Mountain ChinatownUntil Mon to Sat 18:00-03:00, Sun closed

Raku on Spring Mountain in Las Vegas is the Mitsuo Endo izakaya that draws Strip line cooks after midnight, robata until 03:00 and a tofu made fresh.

TryRobata skewers, agedashi tofu, the line-cook industry plate

TipBook 24 hours ahead or arrive after 23:00 for the bar; agedashi tofu, kurobuta pork belly skewers and the soba salad are the standing late-night order.

Two Ten Jack ★ 4.8

$$ NashvilleJapanese izakayaEast NashvilleUntil Sun-Thu 22:00, Fri-Sat 23:00

Patrick Burke's Eastland Avenue ramen and izakaya counter in East Nashville serves the city's reliable late-night bowl: tonkotsu, miso, karaage and sake.

TryTonkotsu ramen and izakaya plates

TipFriday and Saturday kitchen runs until 23:00; happy hour 16:00-18:00 covers $5 small plates and discounted sake.

Hôntô ★ 4.8

$$$ BrisbaneJapanese IzakayaFortitude Valley

Hôntô is the moody basement izakaya through a black door on Alden Street. Otsumami small plates, yakitori, deep sake list, open Mon-Sun late.

SignatureOtsumami small plates, Yakitori skewers, Sashimi selection

Rintaro ★ 4.8

$$ San FranciscoJapanese izakaya

Rintaro in San Francisco is Sylvan Mishima Brackett's Mission izakaya, with handmade soba, a robatayaki grill, and a sake list that pulls from small.

Why locals goMission izakaya from chef Sylvan Mishima Brackett; bookings are hard, but the bar room takes walk-ins and runs the full menu.

TipWalk in for the bar room at 18:00; the kitchen runs the full menu but you do not need a reservation.

Tenma Izakaya Backstreets ★ 4.7

¥ OsakaIzakayaTenma And Tenjinbashi

Over 200 izakayas packed into the alleys behind Tenmangu Shrine; entered almost exclusively by local workers, largely unseen from Tenjinbashi-suji.

Why locals goThe alleys are parallel to the main shopping arcade and one turn away; no tourist signage.

Umami ★ 4.7

$$ PittsburghJapanese IzakayaLawrenceville

Umami on 38th Street in Lawrenceville serves izakaya skewers and ramen in Pittsburgh. A lantern-lit room with a koi pond patio off Butler Street.

OrderA spread of yakitori, a bowl of ramen and a Japanese highball.

TipThe koi pond patio is the seat. Late kitchen on weekends; walk-in friendly midweek.

UNI ★ 4.7

$$$$ Tasting $185 (omakase)BostonJapanese izakayaBack BayChef Ken Oringer

Ken Oringer's UNI inside the Eliot Hotel runs a contemporary Japanese izakaya and omakase counter in Boston's Back Bay since 2002, expanded in 2016.

Book2 weeks ahead

Nagahori ★ 4.6

¥¥¥ OsakaIzakayaKitashinchi And Fukushima

The world's first Michelin-starred izakaya (one star since 2010); Shigeo Nakamura cooks dashimaki tamago and roasted chicken to careful izakaya standard.

OrderRoasted chicken, Dashimaki tamago, Sake pairing

Kingyo Izakaya ★ 4.6

$$$ VancouverJapanese izakayaWest End

Kingyo Izakaya on Denman is Vancouver's reference modern izakaya since 2008, named one of Canada's best Japanese rooms by Air Canada's enRoute in 2014.

OrderStone-grilled gyu tan and buta kakuni, the kitchen's standout izakaya plates.

TipLunch walks in. Dinner books on OpenTable a week out; the chef's counter takes the omakase.

Dachi ★ 4.6

$$$ VancouverJapanese izakayaStrathcona

Dachi on East Hastings is a counter-style izakaya since 2018 with a deep sake list and seasonal fish, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2022 and a Vancouver Magazine top.

OrderThe kitchen's fish crudo from the daily list, then yakitori skewers with a glass of sake.

TipTock reservations open 30 days out; the counter walks in for the early seating.

893 Ryotei ★ 4.6

€€€ BerlinJapanese IzakayaCharlottenburg

The Duc Ngo's 893 Ryotei on Berlin's Kantstrasse cooks Japanese-Peruvian izakaya plates and runs a sushi counter; the dining room serves until late.

OrderThe yellowtail sashimi with yuzu-truffle, the black-cod miso, and the chef sushi omakase.

TipBar counter for omakase is the best seating; book eight weeks ahead via the website.

Sushi Izakaya Gaku ★ 4.6

$$$ HonoluluJapanese IzakayaAla Moana

Sushi Izakaya Gaku on South King is the long-running Japanese izakaya in Honolulu with sashimi, robata grill plates and the cult-favourite buta no kakuni.

OrderThe chef's sashimi selection and the buta no kakuni braised pork.

TipReservations open one month ahead. Order the day's specials board first; chef cuts the best fish for early diners.

Izakaya Minato ★ 4.6

$$$ PortlandJapanese IzakayaEast Bayside

Izakaya Minato on Washington Avenue opened 2017 from Chef Thomas Takashi Cooke, with binchotan-grilled yakitori, donburi bowls and a deep sake list.

OrderA flight of yakitori from the charcoal grill, then the chicken karaage.

TipTuesday to Saturday 17:00-21:30. Resy reservations open 30 days ahead.

Euskalduna Studio 1 ★ ★ 4.6

€€€€ Tasting €155PortoJapanese izakayaChef Vasco Coelho Santos

Euskalduna Studio in Porto's Bonfim is chef Vasco Coelho Santos's eight-seat counter, a Michelin-starred izakaya-style tasting menu of fermentations.

OrderThe chef's surprise menu; trust the kitchen.

Book4 weeks ahead

TipClosed Sunday and Monday. Eight seats only; book exactly four weeks ahead at 10:00.

Izanami at Ten Thousand Waves ★ 4.6

$$$ Santa FeJapanese IzakayaHyde Park

Izanami serves elevated izakaya plates and one of North America's deepest premium-sake lists inside the Ten Thousand Waves spa, off Hyde Park Road.

SignatureNami burger with wagyu, Black sesame noodles, Robata-grilled skewers

Uoshin Nogizaka ★ 4.5

¥¥ TokyoJapanese IzakayaNogizaka

Uoshin Nogizaka in Tokyo is the seafood izakaya where the boat-shaped sashimi platter feeds four. Direct buying from the Toyosu auction floor each morning.

OrderThe big sashimi boat platter; grilled saba and aged tuna are the through-line.

TipWalk-ins only after 17:00; bring cash for the cover charge. Other Uoshin branches in Shinjuku and Shibuya.

Ippuku ★ 4.5

$$$ BerkeleyJapanese izakayaDowntown

Michelin Bib Gourmand 2026. Binchotan yakitori with heritage chicken, house-ground soba and a shochu list. Counter seating near Downtown Berkeley BART.

Kemuri Tatsu-ya ★ 4.5

$$$ AustinJapanese Izakaya / Texas BbqEast Austin

Kemuri Tatsu-ya in Austin is the Tatsu-ya team's Japanese-izakaya-meets-Texas-BBQ mash-up on East 2nd, a Michelin Bib Gourmand kitchen with sake list.

OrderThe brisket ramen; the tonkotsu broth runs into the BBQ kitchen and back out.

TipThe sake list is unusually deep for a BBQ-leaning room; ask the bar to route a flight from Junmai to Daiginjo.

Izakaya Den ★ 4.5

$$$ DenverJapanese IzakayaSouth Pearl

Izakaya Den in Denver is the Kizaki brothers' South Pearl izakaya next door to Sushi Den, a small-plates and yakitori room with the same Toyosu Market fish.

OrderYakitori from the binchotan grill and the wagyu carpaccio.

TipWalk-up only at the bar. The dining room takes bookings; the kitchen closes at 11 pm, later than most South Pearl rooms.

Jingisukan Daruma Honten ★ 4.4

¥¥ SapporoJapanese izakayaSusukinoUntil 05:00Cash only

Daruma Honten's Susukino dome grill runs to 05:00. The post-izakaya jingisukan close: single-cut lamb, the tare sauce, and a beer at the small grill.

TrySapporo-cut jingisukan

TipCash only; queue starts 17:30; after midnight is the local time.

Tasca Kome ★ 4.4

€€ LisbonJapanese IzakayaBaixa

Tasca Kome in Lisbon's Baixa: a Japanese-run kitchen on Rua da Madalena, serving takoyaki, salmon zukedon and ika somen sashimi, no fusion gimmicks.

OrderSalmon zukedon if you only have time for one bowl.

Zuma ★ 4.4

$$$$ MiamiJapanese IzakayaBrickell

Zuma in Miami is Rainer Becker's modern Japanese izakaya at 270 Biscayne Boulevard Way, on the Miami River at the Epic Hotel, open in Brickell since 2010.

OrderRobata-grilled black cod miso, the dish carried across every Zuma globally.

TipSit on the river terrace at sunset; the indoor robata bar is the chef-counter alternative.

Japanese izakaya by city

Regional variations

Tokyo (Shinjuku, Yurakucho, Ueno)

Heavy on grilled fish, yakitori, oden, and shoyu-based preparations. The classic Tokyo izakaya leans toward dashi-and-soy seasoning, with sake from across the country. Yurakucho gado-shita has the densest cluster of standing bars (tachinomi) and basement izakaya.

Osaka

Kushikatsu (deep-fried skewers, double-dipping into the communal sauce is forbidden) dominates. Kuromon market izakaya focus on fresh seafood. Osaka's izakaya are louder, larger, and lean toward the local 'kuidaore' ethos of eating to collapse.

Fukuoka / Kyushu

Yatai street stall izakaya line the Nakasu and Tenjin districts. Open-air, two-meter counters, low stools, motsunabe (offal hotpot) and yakitori. The closest thing to a Bangkok street-food bar in Japan.

Hokkaido

Heavier on seafood (hairy crab, salmon, scallop, uni), butter-based grilled dishes, and lamb (jingisukan, the Hokkaido grilled-lamb specialty). Sapporo's Susukino district has the densest izakaya cluster.

Defining japanese izakaya dishes

Yakitori
Chicken skewers grilled over binchotan (white charcoal). Standard cuts: momo (thigh), kawa (skin), tsukune (meatball), bonjiri (tail), hatsu (heart), reba (liver). Ordered shio (salt) or tare (soy glaze).
Edamame
Boiled or steamed soybeans in their pods, salted. The default starter that arrives with the first beer in almost every izakaya.
Karaage
Japanese fried chicken. Boneless chicken thigh marinated in soy, sake, ginger, and garlic, dredged in potato starch, double-fried. The defining Japanese drinking-food.
Agedashi Tofu
Silken tofu lightly dredged in potato starch, deep-fried, and served in a hot dashi broth with bonito flakes, grated daikon, and scallion. The classic tofu izakaya dish.
Dashimaki Tamago
Rolled omelet enriched with dashi, mirin, and a touch of soy. Cut into rectangles, served warm or at room temperature. The technical benchmark for an izakaya cook.
Tsukemono
Pickled vegetables. Daikon, cucumber, eggplant, plum (umeboshi), cabbage. Served as a small dish to refresh the palate between richer plates.
Sashimi Moriawase
Assorted raw fish plate. Tuna, salmon, yellowtail, squid, octopus, and white fish, on a bed of shredded daikon with shiso and wasabi. The seafood centerpiece.
Motsunabe
Offal hotpot with cabbage, garlic, and chili. A Fukuoka specialty that has spread nationally. Group dish, ordered for sharing.
Tako Wasabi
Raw octopus marinated with wasabi stem. Pungent, sharp, served in a small bowl as an otsumami with cold sake.
Ochazuke
Rice with green tea or dashi poured over, garnished with salmon, salted plum, or seaweed. The classic izakaya closer (shime) to end an evening of drinking.

How to order

Open with drinks before food: most groups order beer (nama biru, draft) first, then sake or shochu as the night progresses. The standard greeting from the staff (irasshaimase) does not require a response. Order in waves: three or four small plates first, then more as the meal develops. Yakitori is ordered piece by piece (or as a moriawase, mixed plate of 5 to 8 skewers); specify shio or tare. Sashimi is ordered as a moriawase or by single piece. Most izakaya have a small cover charge (otoshi or tsukidashi) that arrives unrequested as a small first dish (often 300 to 600 yen per person); this is normal, not a scam. Bills are added up by the table and paid at the door, not at the table. Tipping is not done. The rookie mistakes are ordering everything at once (the food arrives slow-cooked and out of order), expecting English menus (better izakaya often have only Japanese; point at the menu or at neighboring tables), and double-dipping kushikatsu skewers into the communal Osaka sauce (a deep transgression).

What to drink with it

Beer first, almost universally. Asahi Super Dry, Kirin Ichiban, Sapporo, or Yebisu in 350ml or 500ml glasses. Sake (cold for premium junmai daiginjo, warm for table-grade) is ordered by the small flask (tokkuri). Shochu (a distilled spirit from sweet potato, barley, or rice) is drunk on the rocks (lock), with hot water (oyu-wari), or as a highball with soda and lemon (chu-hi). Japanese whisky highballs (haibōru) are now the default young-drinker order. Umeshu (plum wine) is the standard sweet finish. Sour cocktails (lemon sour, grapefruit sour) are popular early in the night. Pace drinks alongside food; izakaya are not bars where alcohol comes first.

Where to eat it

Tokyo holds the deepest izakaya scene: Shinjuku's Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) and Golden Gai for the post-war shack aesthetic, Yurakucho's gado-shita for the under-the-tracks atmosphere, and Ebisu and Nakameguro for the modern craft-sake-led izakaya. Osaka's Hozenji Yokocho and Kuromon market izakaya for the louder Osakan version. Kyoto's Pontocho alley for the elegant historical format. Fukuoka's yatai for the open-air street stall izakaya. Outside Japan, izakaya have spread fastest in New York (Sake Bar Decibel, Sakagura), London (Tonkotsu, Engawa), Vancouver, São Paulo, and Honolulu; Sydney and Melbourne hold particularly strong izakaya thanks to direct Japanese chef migration.

A short history

Izakaya originated in the Edo period (1603-1868) as sake shops that began offering snacks to drinkers who wanted to consume on the premises. The 'i' in izakaya literally means 'to stay'; an izakaya is a sake shop one stays in. The post-war yokocho izakaya (shanty drinking alleys built on bombed-out Tokyo land) shaped the modern format. Craft sake and shochu booms in the 2000s pushed the izakaya into a more ambitious gastronomic mode, especially in Tokyo's Shibuya and Ebisu.

Frequently asked

Is the small dish that arrives without being ordered a scam?

No. It is otoshi (or tsukidashi in Kansai), a customary cover charge expressed as a small first dish, typically 300 to 600 yen per person. It is the price of holding the table and signals the start of service. It is on every izakaya bill.

Can I just have one or two dishes and leave?

Yes, but the rhythm of an izakaya assumes several rounds of food and drink over 90 minutes or more. A solo diner ordering one beer and one karaage is fine at a casual yokocho stall but unusual at a sit-down izakaya, where the table charge expects more spend.

What is the difference between an izakaya and a Japanese bar?

An izakaya leads with food and uses drinks as a continuous accompaniment. A Japanese bar (often a hostess bar, snack bar, or whisky bar) leads with drinks and serves only token food. A standing bar (tachinomi) is an izakaya in standing form, cheaper and faster.

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