Greek$$lower-east-side
Kiki's on Division Street has poured retsina and grilled lamb chops in the Lower East Side, New York City since 2014. No reservations; the line goes around the block.
Signature: Lamb chops, Saganaki
Order: Lamb chops, saganaki, peasant salad.
Tip: Walk in at 17:30 or 22:00 for the only two short waits. The garden out back is the prize.
Sichuan$$east-village
Han Dynasty's East Village outpost runs Chengdu-style numbing-spicy Sichuan in New York City. The dan dan and the dry pot are the room's calibration plates.
Signature: Dan dan noodles, Dry pot fish
Order: Dan dan noodles, dry pot fish, cucumber salad to cool.
Tip: The spice scale runs 1 to 10; the menu says 7 is hot, the kitchen means it. Start at 5.
Italian$$lower-east-side
Spaghetti Incident on Eldridge runs a 30-seat pasta room in the Lower East Side, New York City. Cacio e pepe, vongole, carbonara, BYOB on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Spaghetti vongole
Order: Spaghetti alla chitarra cacio e pepe.
Tip: BYOB nights save the bill significantly. Reservations are easy if you sit at 18:00.
Taqueria$chelsea
Los Tacos No.1 in Chelsea Market has run Tijuana-style hand-pressed tortillas in New York City since 2013. Adobada off the trompo, carne asada, daily aguas frescas.
Signature: Adobada taco, Carne asada
Order: Adobada al pastor, three tacos with pineapple.
Tip: Order at the till, eat standing at the counter. The Hudson Yards outpost is less crowded for the same taco.
Chinese$jackson-heights
Lhasa Fast Food hides behind a Jackson Heights phone shop in New York City. Tibetan momos, hand-pulled thenthuk noodles, butter tea, cash-only counter eating.
Signature: Beef momo, Thenthuk noodle soup
Order: Steamed beef momo, ten to a plate.
Tip: Enter the phone shop on 74th, walk to the back. The counter is to the left through the curtain.
Caribbean$jackson-heights
Maria Piedad Cano started selling arepas under the 7-train tracks in Jackson Heights, New York City in the 1980s. Her Roosevelt Avenue shop now bakes corn cakes daily.
Signature: Arepa de queso, Arepa de choclo
Order: Arepa de choclo with mozzarella, sweet corn cake.
Tip: Cash only at the counter. Take the arepas to the park benches across the street for the full Queens lunch.