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American DinerLower East Side
Russ & Daughters has slung appetising on East Houston in New York City since 1914: hand-sliced smoked salmon, sturgeon, schmaltz herring and bagels to take.
OrderThe Classic: Gaspe Nova lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on a poppy bagel.
TipThe shop is for take-away. Sit down at Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner on Orchard for table service.
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SteakhouseWilliamsburg
Peter Luger has dry-aged porterhouse on Broadway in Williamsburg, New York City since 1887. Cash or house card only, no reservations after 17:00 for walk-ins.
OrderPorterhouse for two, sliced and sauced at the table.
TipBook at least four weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seat and the same meat.
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PizzeriaLower East Side
Anthony Mangieri's Orchard Street pizzeria is the editor's neapolitan pie in New York City: 60-second wood-fired bake, twelve-pizza menu, no slices.
OrderThe Margherita, San Marzano and fior di latte.
TipSix covers at the counter, ten tables, reservations open 30 days out and vanish fast. Wednesday is the longest wait.
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KoreanFlatiron
Chef Junghyun Park's 14-seat counter in NoMad runs the most ambitious Korean tasting menu in New York City. Two Michelin stars, ten courses, $385 set price.
OrderThe full tasting; ordering anything off it misses the point.
TipReservations open 60 days in advance on Tock at midnight; set an alarm. Wine pairing or non-alcoholic both excellent.
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New AmericanFlatiron
Daniel Humm three-Michelin-star Madison Square room serves an 8 to 10 course tasting in New York City. Order the the signature tasting; no a la carte.
OrderThe signature tasting; no a la carte.
TipThe bar room at EMP serves an abbreviated menu without a multi-week wait. Dress code: smart casual, jacket recommended.
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Korean BbqFlatiron
Simon Kim's Flatiron Korean steakhouse holds a Michelin star for tableside grilling in New York City. Priced at $$$$. Kitchen leans korean bbq.
OrderThe Butcher's Feast: four cuts, banchan, stews, egg souffle.
TipSit at the counter overlooking the grill for the full theatre. Wine list is unusually deep for a Korean room.
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VietnameseLower East Side
Chef Helen Nguyen's Orchard Street Vietnamese kitchen in New York City runs sharp central-Vietnamese cooking: bun bo Hue, com tam, banh khot in clay pots.
OrderBun bo Hue with extra cha lua.
TipLunch is the easy seat. Dinner books fast on weekends; Tuesday evenings are quiet and full menu still runs.
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CantoneseChinatown
Wu's Wonton King on East Broadway carves a $58 Peking duck table-side in New York City. Big rooms, Lazy Susan service, two-bird minimum on busy nights.
OrderPeking duck, three courses; wonton soup to start.
TipOrder the duck when you book; same-day requests are routinely refused. BYOB with a small corkage.
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ChineseFlushing
Nan Xiang on Prince Street in Flushing pleats soup dumplings to 18 folds in New York City. Pork, pork-and-crab, and a green truffle-pork basket on weekends.
OrderPork-and-crab xiao long bao, basket of eight.
TipTake the 7 train to Flushing-Main Street; the room runs 60-minute waits at lunch. No reservations; expect a buzzer.
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ItalianCarroll Gardens
The two Franks have served Brooklyn-Italian on Court Street in New York City since 2004: handmade pastas, escarole salad, sausage cavatelli in a garden out.
OrderCavatelli, hot sausage, brown butter and sage.
TipSit in the garden in warm weather. The meatballs over polenta is the second pick if cavatelli has sold out.
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ItalianWest Village
Jody Williams and Rita Sodi's Grove Street West Village room serves Tuscan-leaning food in New York City. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans italian.
OrderInsalata verde, cacio e pepe, chocolate budino.
TipWalk in at 17:00 sharp for the first seating, or join the list around 20:30 for the second wave.
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New AmericanMidtown
Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's restoration of the Seagram Pool Room runs mid-century power-lunch food in New York City. Honey-glazed duck, tableside Caesar.
OrderHoney-glazed duck for two, carved at the table.
TipLunch is the move; the same room without the dinner price ceiling. Dress code is enforced: no jeans, no sneakers.
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ItalianGreenwich Village
Major Food Group's red-sauce Italian-American room on Thompson Street in New York City turns 1950s tableside service into theatre. Priced at $$$$.
OrderSpicy rigatoni vodka and the veal parmesan to share.
TipReservations are notorious; the bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the full menu. Don't skip the Caesar.
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French Fine DiningMidtown
Eric Ripert's three-Michelin-star seafood room in Midtown New York City has held its stars since 2005. Tasting menu $268, mostly raw and barely-cooked fish.
OrderThe Almost Raw, Barely Touched, Lightly Cooked tasting.
TipLunch prix-fixe at $98 is the entry point; same kitchen, same plate, half the price of dinner.
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New AmericanTribeca
Chef Ronny Emborg's two-Michelin-star 12-seat Tribeca counter runs a foraged Nordic-inflected tasting menu in New York City. $345, 20 courses, single seating.
OrderThe full tasting; the kitchen does not split orders.
TipOne seating per night; arrive 19:00 sharp. Wine pairing skews European biodynamic and adds $245.
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ItalianFlatiron
Chef Stefano Secchi's Flatiron pasta room runs Emilian hand-rolled pastas in New York City: tortellini in brodo, anolini, gramigna. Michelin star since 2022.
OrderThe Tour of Emilia: five hand-rolled pastas, $98.
TipReservations open 28 days out on Resy. The bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the same pasta tour.
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French BistroSoho
Raoul's has poured Cotes du Rhone and seared steak au poivre on Prince Street in SoHo, New York City since 1975. The bar burger is the off-menu cult order.
OrderSteak au poivre or the off-menu bar burger.
TipTen burgers a night, only at the bar, only after 19:30. Get there at 19:00 and put your name down with the bartender.
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ChineseMidtown
Shun Lee Palace has served Cantonese and Hunan food on East 55th Street in New York City since 1971. T.T. Order the beggar's chicken, ordered 24 hours ahead.
OrderBeggar's chicken, ordered 24 hours ahead.
TipOrder the General Tso's the first time as a history lesson; on return visits skip it for the Hunan beef.
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Spanish TapasGramercy
Andy Nusser and Mario Batali's Gramercy tapas counter in New York City has held a Michelin star since 2009. Andalusian small plates, deep Spanish wine list.
OrderSea urchin panini and the bone marrow with oxtail.
TipCounter seats are easier than the dining room. The next-door Bar Jamon takes walk-ins for the same kitchen.
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New AmericanNolita
Ignacio Mattos's Houston Street Nolita room in New York City runs Mediterranean-leaning small plates. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans new american.
OrderBurrata with charred bread, beef tartare, ricotta dumplings.
TipThe counter is first-come; bar tables take walk-ins. Wine list is unusually long for a 60-seat room.
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Jewish deliUpper East Side
Pastrami Queen on Lexington serves kosher pastrami sandwiches on the Upper East Side of New York City. Modest counter, oversized sandwiches since 1956.
OrderHand-cut pastrami on rye with mustard.
TipCounter is tiny and seats fewer than a dozen; the takeaway line moves faster than the dine-in queue.
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RomanianLower East Side
Sammy's Roumanian reopened on Stanton Street in 2024 after the Chrystie basement closed in 2021. Romanian-Jewish steakhouse, schmaltz on every table.
OrderGarlic-rubbed skirt steak with seltzer-and-chocolate-syrup egg cream service.
TipTables are mixed at long shared boards; book the early seating by phone (646-410-2427) if you want any chance of hearing your tablemate.
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SeafoodMidtown
The Grand Central Oyster Bar has poured oysters and clam chowder beneath the Guastavino tiles of New York City's Grand Central Terminal since 1913.
OrderA cup of Manhattan clam chowder and a half-dozen East Coast oysters at the counter.
TipSit at the counter facing the open kitchen; the pan roast is theatre when made to order.
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Sichuan ChineseChinatown
Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
OrderCold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
TipThe cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.