Seafood$$$$west-endDaily 11:30-22:00
Joe Fortes on Thurlow is Vancouver's long-running upmarket seafood house since 1985, named for Vancouver's first lifeguard, plus a rooftop oyster bar.
Signature: Oysters on the half shell, Cedar plank salmon, Crab cakes
Order: A dozen Read Island oysters with a glass of BC sparkling, plus the cedar plank salmon.
Tip: The rooftop oyster bar walks in for sundowner oysters from 16:00 May to September; the dining room books on OpenTable.
Cambodian$$chinatownWed-Mon 10:00-21:00, closed Tuesdays
Phnom Penh on East Georgia Street since 1985 runs the Cambodian and Vietnamese kitchen the city sets its bar by, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2022.
Signature: Crispy chicken wings, Butter beef carpaccio, Pho ga
Order: A double order of the crispy chicken wings and butter beef carpaccio; Phnom Penh's reference plates.
Tip: No reservations; arrive before 18:00 or after 20:30 to skip the line. Cash takes a discount.
Japanese sushi$$$$south-granvilleTue-Sat 17:00-22:00, closed Sun-Mon
Sushi Masuda on West 1st Avenue is chef Hirofumi Masuda's small edomae counter since 2018, Michelin-starred in the inaugural 2022 Vancouver guide.
Signature: Edomae omakase, Akami tuna, Hokkaido uni
Order: The omakase at the counter; chef Hirofumi Masuda trained at Sukiyabashi Jiro and Sushi Saito.
Tip: Reservations on Tock open 60 days out and book within minutes; one omakase price point.
Pacific Northwest$$$kitsilanoTue-Sun 17:00-22:00, closed Mondays
Fable Kitchen on West 4th from chef Trevor Bird is a farm-to-table room since 2012, Top Chef Canada finalist and the city's reference Kits neighbourhood pick.
Signature: Wood-grilled steelhead, Crispy chicken, Brunch poutine
Order: The crispy fried chicken with smashed potatoes; a Top Chef Canada Kitsilano standby.
Tip: Reservations on OpenTable open 30 days out; Sunday brunch books on Resy.
Italian$$$strathconaWed-Sun 17:00-22:00, closed Mon-Tue
Ask for Luigi in Railtown since 2013 is J-C Poirier's Italian handmade-pasta room, the same kitchen behind St Lawrence, Michelin Bib Gourmand 2022.
Signature: Tagliatelle bolognese, Cacio e pepe, Pappardelle with rabbit ragu
Order: Handmade pappardelle with rabbit ragu, the kitchen's reference pasta from chef J-C Poirier.
Tip: No reservations; walk-in line from 17:00. The bar opens 30 minutes earlier.
Japanese sushi$$$$punjabi-marketTue-Sat 17:30-22:00, closed Sun-Mon
Masayoshi on Fraser Street is chef Masayoshi Baba's small edomae sushi counter since 2014, Michelin one-star from the inaugural 2022 BC guide.
Signature: Edomae omakase, Akami nigiri, Steamed egg custard
Order: The omakase counter set, the only menu format; chef Masayoshi Baba sets the pace.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out on Tock and book within minutes; counter only.