The restaurants worth the trip in San Francisco. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.

Our picks in San Francisco

Zuni Cafe ★ 4.8

$$$ CaliforniaHayes Valley

Zuni Cafe in San Francisco is the city's most enduring California room: Judy Rodgers' roast chicken for two with bread salad has not left the menu since 1987.

OrderThe Judy Rodgers roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered the moment you sit.

TipThe chicken takes an hour to fire from order; book a table and ask the server to start it as you arrive.

State Bird Provisions ★ 4.7

$$$ Modern AmericanLower Pacific Heights

State Bird Provisions in San Francisco runs a small-plate dim-sum-cart format under Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, James Beard winners in 2015.

OrderThe State Bird itself, a brined and fried quail with sweet and sour onions.

TipReservations open exactly 60 days out at 7:30am Pacific; set an alarm or join the standing-room line at 5pm.

Mister Jiu's ★ 4.8

$$$$ ChineseChinatown

Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.

OrderThe whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.

TipSit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.

Tartine Manufactory ★ 4.6

$$ Bakery CafeThe Mission

Tartine Manufactory in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's larger Mission site, with bread, pastry, plates and a wine bar under one roof.

OrderThe morning bun and a country loaf to take home.

TipSkip the queue at the Guerrero Street original; the Manufactory has the same bakes plus a sit-down kitchen.

Nopa ★ 4.5

$$$ CaliforniaLower Pac Heights

Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.

OrderThe Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.

TipBar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.

Foreign Cinema ★ 4.3

$$$ MediterraneanThe Mission

Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.

OrderBrunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.

TipBrunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.

Rich Table ★ 4.6

$$$ CaliforniaHayes Valley

Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.

OrderPorcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.

TipThe bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.

Kin Khao ★ 4.4

$$$ ThaiSoma Yerba Buena

Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's Michelin-starred Thai room near Union Square, with regional cooking far from the safe pad thai script.

OrderThe rabbit green curry over jasmine rice; the dish that won the Michelin star.

TipThe bar pours a sharp Riesling list; ask for the off-menu cold larb when it is available.

Marlowe ★ 4.3

$$$ AmericanSoma Yerba Buena

Marlowe in San Francisco is the Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio bistro south of Market, with one of the city's most reliable burgers and a Brussels sprout.

OrderThe Marlowe burger, on a Pretzel bun with Cabot cheddar.

TipSit at the bar and ask for the burger plus the kale Caesar; that is the full Marlowe order.

Liholiho Yacht Club ★ 4.4

$$$ AmericanLower Pac Heights

Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco is Ravi Kapur's Hawaiian-leaning room above the Tenderloin, with one of the city's strongest fun-dinner energies.

OrderTuna poke with sesame nori chips, followed by spam fried rice.

TipThe bar room takes walk-ins; the dining room is two months out.

Burma Superstar ★ 4.3

$$ BurmeseRichmond

Burma Superstar in San Francisco is the Clement Street Burmese room that taught the city to eat lahpet thoke; the tea leaf salad is the order.

OrderThe tea leaf salad, tossed table-side with crunchy lentils and fried garlic.

TipNo reservations; put your name in then walk down Clement to B Star for tea while you wait.

Anchor Oyster Bar ★ 4.5

$$$ SeafoodCastro Noe Valley

Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.

OrderThe cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.

TipNo bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.

Swan Oyster Depot ★ 4.7

$$$ SeafoodLower Pac Heights

Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco is a Polk Street counter that has served cold-house Dungeness, oysters and clam chowder since 1912 in 18 stools.

OrderCrab Louie and a half-dozen Marin Miyagis on the half shell.

TipOpen 10:30-17:00 only; queue forms at 09:45 on a weekend, takes an hour at peak.

Tadich Grill ★ 4.3

$$$ AmericanEmbarcadero

Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.

OrderSand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.

TipNo reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.

Sotto Mare ★ 4.5

$$$ Italian SeafoodNorth Beach

Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.

OrderThe cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.

TipWear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.

True Laurel ★ 4.4

$$$ Modern AmericanThe Mission

True Laurel in San Francisco is Lazy Bear's sister cocktail-and-snack bar in the Mission, with David Barzelay's kitchen plates and a strong drinks list.

OrderCrispy brassicas and the cocktail tasting at the bar.

TipThe bar takes walk-ins; book the dining room only if you want the bigger plates.

Che Fico ★ 4.4

$$$ ItalianLower Pac Heights

Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine.

OrderRoman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.

TipThe downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.

Octavia ★ 4.6

$$$$ CaliforniaLower Pac Heights

Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.

OrderWhatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.

TipTuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.

Lazy Bear ★ 4.7

$$$$ New AmericanThe Mission

Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.

OrderThe bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.

TipTickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.

Californios ★ 4.8

$$$$ Modern Mexican TastingSoma Yerba Buena

Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting room, 16 seats, the most cerebral table in the city right now.

OrderWhatever the corn course is on the night; the kitchen sources nixtamal heirloom corns directly.

TipThere is only one seating a night; book six weeks out for any Friday or Saturday.

Yank Sing ★ 4.4

$$$ Cantonese Dim SumSoma Yerba Buena

Yank Sing in San Francisco is the Chan family's Cantonese dim sum institution since 1958, with a SoMa flagship and weekend lines that run to 90 minutes.

OrderShanghai dumplings: the kitchen's most-ordered cart item for decades.

TipThe Stevenson Street original is smaller and quieter; book the Spear Street flagship only if you want carts.

Frances ★ 4.5

$$$ CaliforniaCastro Noe Valley

Frances in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Castro neighbourhood room, holding a Michelin star with a 40-seat dining room and a wine list priced.

OrderApplewood-smoked bacon beignets with maple chive cream.

TipReservations open 30 days out at 10:00; the bar room takes walk-ins from 17:30.

Scoma's ★ 4.3

$$$ Italian SeafoodNorth Beach

Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.

OrderLazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.

TipReservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.

Dragon Beaux ★ 4.5

$$ CantoneseRichmond

Dragon Beaux in San Francisco is a 2015 Outer Richmond room from the Koi Palace family, with modern dim sum at lunch and Cantonese hot pot at dinner.

OrderThe Five Guys xiao long bao (five colours, five flavours) and the BBQ pork puff with apple.

TipDim sum is lunch-only; book ahead for weekend brunch or arrive before 11:30 for a walk-in seat.

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