California$$$hayes-valley
Zuni Cafe in San Francisco is the city's most enduring California room: Judy Rodgers' roast chicken for two with bread salad has not left the menu since 1987.
Signature: Roast chicken with bread salad, Caesar salad, Burger
Order: The Judy Rodgers roast chicken for two with bread salad, ordered the moment you sit.
Tip: The chicken takes an hour to fire from order; book a table and ask the server to start it as you arrive.
Modern American$$$lower-pacific-heights
State Bird Provisions in San Francisco runs a small-plate dim-sum-cart format under Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski, James Beard winners in 2015.
Signature: State Bird with provisions, Sourdough pancake with ricotta
Order: The State Bird itself, a brined and fried quail with sweet and sour onions.
Tip: Reservations open exactly 60 days out at 7:30am Pacific; set an alarm or join the standing-room line at 5pm.
Chinese American$$$$chinatown
Mister Jiu's in San Francisco is Brandon Jew's Cal-Chinese flagship in old Chinatown, holding a Michelin star and a separate cocktail bar worth a visit alone.
Signature: Hot and sour Dungeness, Quail in roses, Whole crispy duck
Order: The whole roast Mongolian duck with house pancakes, ordered ahead.
Tip: Sit in the upstairs bar Moongate Lounge and order from the full menu without committing to the tasting.
Bakery cafe$$the-mission
Tartine Manufactory in San Francisco is Chad Robertson and Elisabeth Prueitt's larger Mission site, with bread, pastry, plates and a wine bar under one roof.
Signature: Country loaf, Morning bun, Wood-oven pizza
Order: The morning bun and a country loaf to take home.
Tip: Skip the queue at the Guerrero Street original; the Manufactory has the same bakes plus a sit-down kitchen.
California$$$lower-pac-heights
Nopa in San Francisco is the neighbourhood room that defines the western Divisadero corridor: wood-grilled California food, kitchen open until 01:00.
Signature: Wood-grilled flatbreads, Rotisserie chicken, Burger
Order: The Nopa burger, available at the bar after the dinner rush.
Tip: Bar seats are first-come; arrive at 17:00 or after 22:30 for the late-night menu without a wait.
Mediterranean$$$the-mission
Foreign Cinema in San Francisco is the Mission's open-air courtyard room from Gayle Pirie and John Clark, with a film projected on the back wall after dark.
Signature: Pomegranate-glazed lamb, Brunch oysters, Fried chicken
Order: Brunch fried chicken with cornmeal waffle, between a 10:30 oyster start.
Tip: Brunch on a sunny Saturday is the move; book the courtyard, not the indoor room.
California$$$hayes-valley
Rich Table in San Francisco is Sarah and Evan Rich's Hayes Valley California room near the opera house, holding a Michelin star and a strong house pasta menu.
Signature: Sardine chips, Porcini doughnuts, Pasta of the day
Order: Porcini doughnuts with raclette for the table; the dish that put the room on the map.
Tip: The bar seats see the whole pass; book one of the two and order the chef-counter pasta supplement.
Thai$$$soma-yerba-buena
Kin Khao in San Francisco is Pim Techamuanvivit's Michelin-starred Thai room near Union Square, with regional cooking far from the safe pad thai script.
Signature: Rabbit green curry, Pretty hot wings, Khao soi
Order: The rabbit green curry over jasmine rice; the dish that won the Michelin star.
Tip: The bar pours a sharp Riesling list; ask for the off-menu cold larb when it is available.
American$$$soma-yerba-buena
Marlowe in San Francisco is the Anna Weinberg and Jennifer Puccio bistro south of Market, with the city's most reliable burger after Nopa's.
Signature: Burger, Brussels sprout chips, Roast chicken
Order: The Marlowe burger, on a Pretzel bun with Cabot cheddar.
Tip: Sit at the bar and ask for the burger plus the kale Caesar; that is the full Marlowe order.
Hawaiian American$$$lower-pac-heights
Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco is Ravi Kapur's Hawaiian-leaning room above the Tenderloin, with one of the city's strongest fun-dinner energies.
Signature: Spam fried rice, Tuna poke, Baked Hawaii
Order: Tuna poke with sesame nori chips, followed by spam fried rice.
Tip: The bar room takes walk-ins; the dining room is two months out.
Burmese$$richmond
Burma Superstar in San Francisco is the Clement Street Burmese room that taught the city to eat lahpet thoke; the tea leaf salad is the order.
Signature: Tea leaf salad, Rainbow salad, Samusa soup
Order: The tea leaf salad, tossed table-side with crunchy lentils and fried garlic.
Tip: No reservations; put your name in then walk down Clement to B Star for tea while you wait.
Seafood$$$castro-noe-valley
Anchor Oyster Bar in San Francisco is a 22-seat Castro counter that has served Dungeness, cioppino and clam chowder the same way since 1977.
Signature: Cioppino, Clam chowder, Cracked Dungeness
Order: The cioppino in season, with a side of garlic bread.
Tip: No bookings; arrive at 16:30 for the early seating or after 21:00 when the line thins.
Seafood$$$lower-pac-heights
Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco is a Polk Street counter that has served cold-house Dungeness, oysters and clam chowder since 1912 in 18 stools.
Signature: Cracked Dungeness, Sicilian sashimi, Clam chowder
Order: Crab Louie and a half-dozen Marin Miyagis on the half shell.
Tip: Open 10:30 to 17:00 only; queue forms at 09:45 on a weekend, takes an hour at peak.
American$$$embarcadero
Tadich Grill in San Francisco is California's oldest continuously running restaurant, opened in 1849 in the Financial District, still grilling over mesquite.
Signature: Cioppino, Hangtown Fry, Sand dabs
Order: Sand dabs grilled over mesquite, or the Hangtown Fry at lunch.
Tip: No reservations except for parties of six or more; lunch counter seats turn over fastest.
Italian seafood$$$north-beach
Sotto Mare in San Francisco is the North Beach Italian seafood room that does the city's best cioppino, a 12-table room that takes a few reservations.
Signature: Cioppino for two, Linguine vongole, Sand dabs
Order: The cioppino for two; the kitchen's whole reputation in one bowl.
Tip: Wear an apron, no exceptions; the cioppino is not negotiable on splatter.
Modern American$$$the-mission
True Laurel in San Francisco is Lazy Bear's sister cocktail-and-snack bar in the Mission, with David Barzelay's kitchen plates and a strong drinks list.
Signature: Caviar service, Burger, Brassicas
Order: Crispy brassicas and the cocktail tasting at the bar.
Tip: The bar takes walk-ins; book the dining room only if you want the bigger plates.
Italian$$$lower-pac-heights
Che Fico in San Francisco is David Nayfeld's Roman-leaning Italian on Divisadero, with Roman-Jewish artichokes, real Vesuvian pizza and a long Italian wine list.
Signature: Pizza alla diavola, Carbonara, Roman-Jewish artichokes
Order: Roman-Jewish artichokes in spring, the pizza alla diavola otherwise.
Tip: The downstairs Che Fico Alimentari is the lunch counter with the same pasta at half the price.
California$$$$lower-pac-heights
Octavia in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Michelin-starred Pacific Heights room, with day-boat fish and a market-led California plate at every service.
Signature: Heirloom tomato salad, Day boat fish, Whole grilled fish
Order: Whatever whole fish the kitchen has, with whatever vegetable lands that morning.
Tip: Tuesday and Wednesday are easier seatings; the heirloom tomato course is the August set piece.
Modern American tasting$$$$the-mission
Lazy Bear in San Francisco is David Barzelay's two-Michelin-star Mission tasting room run as a dinner party for 40 guests across two communal tables.
Signature: Communal tasting, Crispy duck, Bread course
Order: The bread course with the cultured butter; ten years on it is still the marker.
Tip: Tickets release on the 1st of each month for 60 days out; sign up to the email waitlist for advance notice.
Modern Mexican tasting$$$$soma-yerba-buena
Californios in San Francisco is Val Cantu's two-Michelin-star modern Mexican tasting room, 16 seats, the most cerebral table in the city right now.
Signature: Tasting menu, Tamal, Aguachile
Order: Whatever the corn course is on the night; the kitchen sources nixtamal heirloom corns directly.
Tip: There is only one seating a night; book six weeks out for any Friday or Saturday.
Cantonese dim sum$$$soma-yerba-buena
Yank Sing in San Francisco is the Chan family's Cantonese dim sum institution since 1958, with a SoMa flagship and weekend lines that run to 90 minutes.
Signature: Shanghai dumplings, Peking duck buns, Har gow
Order: Shanghai dumplings: the kitchen's most-ordered cart item for decades.
Tip: The Stevenson Street original is smaller and quieter; book the Spear Street flagship only if you want carts.
California$$$castro-noe-valley
Frances in San Francisco is Melissa Perello's Castro neighbourhood room, holding a Michelin star with a 40-seat dining room and a wine list priced by the ounce.
Signature: Bacon beignets, Whole roast fish, House wine on tap
Order: Applewood-smoked bacon beignets with maple chive cream.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out at 10:00; the bar room takes walk-ins from 17:30.
Italian seafood$$$north-beach
Scoma's in San Francisco is the 1965 Pier 47 seafood room at Fisherman's Wharf, with the Lazy Man's cioppino served from a 60-year-old family recipe.
Signature: Lazy Man's cioppino, Dungeness crab cocktail, Whole grilled petrale sole
Order: Lazy Man's cioppino, with the shells pre-cracked by the kitchen.
Tip: Reservations open 30 days out; the bar takes walk-ins from 12:00 and is the best seat for a single diner.
Cantonese (dim sum, hot pot)$$richmond
Dragon Beaux in San Francisco is a 2015 Outer Richmond room from the Koi Palace family, with modern dim sum at lunch and Cantonese hot pot at dinner.
Signature: Five Guys xiao long bao, Black truffle har gow, BBQ pork puff pastry
Order: The Five Guys xiao long bao (five colours, five flavours) and the BBQ pork puff with apple.
Tip: Dim sum is lunch-only; book ahead for weekend brunch or arrive before 11:30 for a walk-in seat.