Bistros, trattorias and the everyday places where Lisbon actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Lisbon actually eats.
Cafe de Sao Bento in Lisbon's Lapa: a 40-year-old steakhouse named after the parliament next door, garlic-mustard sirloin and dark wood booths.
OrderBife a Cafe de Sao Bento, garlic-mustard sauce, served with shoestring chips.
Tasquinha do Lagarto in Lisbon's Campolide: a 1973 family tasca with Sporting Lisbon shirts on the walls, atum cebolada and baked octopus to share.
OrderPolvo a lagareiro, baked octopus with potatoes, garlic and olive oil.
O Magano in Lisbon's Campo de Ourique: a 2002 Alentejano room from brothers Marco and Bruno Luis, petiscos, favas com chourico and pork-with-clams done right.
OrderCarne de porco a alentejana, pork with clams, the canonical Alentejo dish.
Cervejaria Pinoquio on Lisbon's Praca dos Restauradores: a no-fuss Portuguese seafood room serving from morning to late night, clams and arroz de marisco.
OrderAmeijoas a Bulhao Pato, clams in garlic and coriander.
Cervejaria Liberdade in Lisbon: a polished seafood hall inside the Tivoli Avenida, Berlenga gooseneck barnacles, Algarve prawns and Aveiro oysters daily.
OrderAlgarve red prawns and a glass of Soalheiro Alvarinho.
Pateo at Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: the glass-roofed centre court of Jose Avillez's complex, modern Portuguese mains served at long tables.
OrderAcorda real, bread-and-shellfish stew with prawns and lobster.
Tasca da Esquina in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon: chef Vitor Sobral's modern tasca, petiscos rooted in Alentejano cooking with Lusophone touches and a daily fish.
OrderA round of petiscos, then the daily fish.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
OrderCharcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
Cantinho do Avillez at Parque das Nacoes: the Vasco da Gama centre outpost of Jose Avillez's small-plates concept, with Tagus river views from the terrace.
OrderDeep-fried green beans and Alentejo-style black pork.
Petisco Saloio in Lisbon's Campo Pequeno: a tiny petisco room locals book ahead, fixed lunch menus and evening small plates, ox-tail pie and croquetes.
OrderA round of croquetes followed by pork cheeks in piri-piri sauce.
Faz Frio in Lisbon's Principe Real: a 19th-century tavern with wooden booths, ox-tail, goat stew and the city's best octopus salad on a short menu.
OrderOctopus salad and goat stew with rice.
Solar 31 da Calcada in Lisbon's Alfama: a fish-counter restaurant grilling whole sea bass and dourada to order, with arroz de marisco for two.
OrderWhole sea bass from the counter, grilled, with vegetable rice.
Marisqueira Uma in Lisbon's Baixa: a long-running marisqueira on Rua dos Sapateiros, tiger prawns, garlic clams and whole fish straight off the counter ice.
OrderAmeijoas a Bulhao Pato then whichever fish the counter is pushing.
Mercearia do Seculo in Lisbon's Principe Real: a grocer-turned-restaurant where reservations are essential, dried tuna, bacalhau and octopus on a tight menu.
OrderDried tuna starter, then the bacalhau of the day.
Pateo 13 in Lisbon's Alfama: a courtyard tasca grilling sardines and chicken over charcoal, picnic tables, sangria, summer queues from June onwards.
OrderCharcoal sardines straight off the grill, with boiled potatoes.
Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.
OrderThe tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.
Adega de Belem in Lisbon's Belem: a tile-walled tasca a short walk from Pasteis de Belem, bacalhau com natas, roast cod and an Alentejo wine list.
OrderBacalhau com natas, salt cod baked with cream and shoestring potatoes.
Tasca Ze dos Bois in Bairro Alto: the in-house kitchen of the ZDB cultural centre, petiscos and natural wines on a courtyard, open evenings only.
OrderThe chalkboard petiscos plus a natural-wine flight.
A Merendinha do Arco in Lisbon's Baixa: a no-fuss workers' lunch room since the 1950s, bitoques, pataniscas and a daily prato do dia under ten euros.
OrderBitoque, the workers'-lunch steak with egg, rice and chips.
Os Tibetanos near Avenida da Liberdade in Lisbon: a Buddhist-run vegetarian kitchen since 1989, momos and curries with a quiet garden patio.
OrderA round of momos, then a vegetable thali with masala chai.
Cervejaria Galeto on Avenida da Republica in Lisbon: a 1966 cervejaria with the original counter intact, late kitchen, pregos and bitoques until 02:00.
OrderA prego no prato, steak sandwich on Portuguese papo seco.
La Madragoa in Lisbon's Santos: a 20-seat family-run room cooking arroz de marisco, bacalhau a lagareiro and grilled sardines with Douro wines.
OrderArroz de marisco for two, then grilled sardines.
Lisboa a Noite in Bairro Alto: a stone-walled dining room from 1984 cooking bacalhau, whole fish and roast suckling pig from a domed brick oven.
OrderBacalhau Lisboa a Noite, the namesake codfish baked in a tile dish.
O Piteu da Graca in Lisbon's Graca: a workers' tasca lined in azulejos, baked octopus, duck rice and an Alentejo wine card, full at lunch every weekday.
OrderPolvo a lagareiro, baked octopus with crushed potatoes.
Tasca do Jaime in Lisbon's Graca: a tiled tasca with a daily blackboard, iscas com elas and pataniscas at workers' prices, cash only, no bookings.
OrderIscas com elas, marinated pork liver with boiled potatoes.
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