Eat in Mouraria, Lisbon

O Velho Eurico ★ 4.5

O Velho Eurico in Lisbon's Mouraria: Ze Paulo Rocha's neo-tasca behind Sao Cristovao church, modern takes on Portuguese classics, books months ahead.

OrderThe octopus salad and a glass of vinho verde.

Ze dos Cornos ★ 4.5

Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.

OrderCharcoal-grilled pork ribs with rice and beans.

The Food Temple ★ 4.5

The Food Temple in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tiny vegetarian set-menu room on Beco do Jasmim, four daily-changing courses, twelve seats, a tucked-away yard.

OrderWhatever's on the four-course set menu that night.

Ze dos Cornos ★ 4.7

Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.

OrderCharcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.

TOPO Martim Moniz ★ 4.2

TOPO Martim Moniz in Lisbon's Mouraria: a rooftop above the shopping centre with a Castelo de Sao Jorge view, longstanding DJ programming, busy in summer.

DrinkCaipirinha with Castelo de Sao Jorge across the valley

FoodSmall plates and shareables

Taste of Lisboa ★ 4.3

Taste of Lisboa Roots: a 3.5-hour local-led walk through Mouraria and ancient Lisbon, five small businesses, family-run rooms and a bakery, food and drink.

Culinary Backstreets ★ 4.7

Culinary Backstreets Lisbon Postcolonial Feast is a 6-hour walk through cuisines of Portugal's former colonies: Angolan, Mozambican, Cape Verdean stops.

Culinary Backstreets ★ 4.6

Culinary Backstreets Hidden Flavors of the Hillside in Lisbon: a 4-hour afternoon walk through Mouraria and Graca with eleven tasting stops in family.

Ze dos Cornos ★ 4.5

Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs for 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.

TryGarlic pork ribs and rice

Taste of Pakistan ★ 4.2

Taste of Pakistan on Lisbon's Rua do Benformoso: a halal Pakistani curry house in Little Bangladesh, chicken karahi with rice for 10 euros, generous plate.

TryChicken karahi with rice

Ze dos Cornos ★ 4.7

Ze dos Cornos is a back-alley mouraria tasca with no signage, tile walls and charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, locals fill the long table by 19:30.

Why locals goA back-alley Mouraria tasca with no signage, tile walls and charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, locals fill the long table by 19:30.

TipCash only. Arrive at 12:30 or 19:30 sharp or you queue in the alley.

The Food Temple ★ 4.8

The Food Temple is a candlelit vegan tapas room down a mouraria alley you would never find on purpose, with cushions on the front steps for warm nights.

Why locals goA candlelit vegan tapas room down a Mouraria alley you would never find on purpose, with cushions on the front steps for warm nights.

TipCash only and dinner-only. Book by Instagram a few days ahead.

O Velho Eurico ★ 4.7

O Velho Eurico is a neo-tasca tucked behind sao cristovao church that books out a month ahead via instagram dm, tourists rarely find their way.

Why locals goA neo-tasca tucked behind Sao Cristovao church that books out a month ahead via Instagram DM, tourists rarely find their way.

TipDM the Instagram account for reservations. Walk-ins are very rare.

Casa Independente ★ 4.1

Casa Independente in Lisbon: Cocktails in a once-crumbling Intendente palace, where DJs play across two courtyards behind a brass-knocker door.

Why locals goCocktails in a once-crumbling Intendente palace, where DJs play across two courtyards behind a brass-knocker door.

TipFriday and Saturday nights only. Walk in, the door is unmarked.

Casa Independente ★ 4.3

Casa Independente on Largo do Intendente is the Mouraria cultural house in a decaying 19th-century mansion, programming live gigs in the Tiger Room and DJ.

TipOpen Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00, weekends to 02:00. The Tiger Room is the concert hall, the patio is the conversation seat. Closed Sunday and Monday.