The old Moorish quarter, now Lisbon's most multicultural pocket. Bangladeshi, Chinese, Indian and Mozambican kitchens within five minutes of each other.
O Velho Eurico in Lisbon's Mouraria: Ze Paulo Rocha's neo-tasca behind Sao Cristovao church, modern takes on Portuguese classics, books months ahead.
Signature: Octopus salad, Bacalhau a Bras
Order: The octopus salad and a glass of vinho verde.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled pork ribs with rice and beans.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs for 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.
Try: Garlic pork ribs and rice
Taste of Pakistan on Lisbon's Rua do Benformoso: a halal Pakistani curry house in Little Bangladesh, chicken karahi with rice for 10 euros, generous plate.
Try: Chicken karahi with rice