The old Moorish quarter, now Lisbon's most multicultural pocket. Bangladeshi, Chinese, Indian and Mozambican kitchens within five minutes of each other.
O Velho Eurico in Lisbon's Mouraria: Ze Paulo Rocha's neo-tasca behind Sao Cristovao church, modern takes on Portuguese classics, books months ahead.
Signature: Octopus salad, Bacalhau a Bras
Order: The octopus salad and a glass of vinho verde.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled pork ribs with rice and beans.
The Food Temple in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tiny vegetarian set-menu room on Beco do Jasmim, four daily-changing courses, twelve seats, a tucked-away yard.
Signature: Daily-changing vegetarian set menu
Order: Whatever's on the four-course set menu that night.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
TOPO Martim Moniz in Lisbon's Mouraria: a rooftop above the shopping centre with a Castelo de Sao Jorge view, longstanding DJ programming, busy in summer.
Signature drink: Caipirinha with Castelo de Sao Jorge across the valley
Food: Small plates and shareables
Taste of Lisboa Roots: a 3.5-hour local-led walk through Mouraria and ancient Lisbon, five small businesses, family-run rooms and a bakery, food and drink.
Culinary Backstreets Lisbon Postcolonial Feast is a 6-hour walk through cuisines of Portugal's former colonies: Angolan, Mozambican, Cape Verdean stops.
Culinary Backstreets Hidden Flavors of the Hillside in Lisbon: a 4-hour afternoon walk through Mouraria and Graca with eleven tasting stops in family.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal-grilled pork ribs for 12 euros, cash only, no bookings.
Try: Garlic pork ribs and rice
Taste of Pakistan on Lisbon's Rua do Benformoso: a halal Pakistani curry house in Little Bangladesh, chicken karahi with rice for 10 euros, generous plate.
Try: Chicken karahi with rice
Casa Independente on Largo do Intendente is the Mouraria cultural house in a decaying 19th-century mansion, programming live gigs in the Tiger Room and DJ.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Saturday from 17:00, weekends to 02:00. The Tiger Room is the concert hall, the patio is the conversation seat. Closed Sunday and Monday.