Portuguese seafood€€alfama
Solar 31 da Calcada in Lisbon's Alfama: a fish-counter restaurant grilling whole sea bass and dourada to order, with arroz de marisco for two.
Signature: Whole grilled fish, Arroz de marisco
Order: Whole sea bass from the counter, grilled, with vegetable rice.
Portuguese seafood€€Baixa
Marisqueira Uma in Lisbon's Baixa: a long-running marisqueira on Rua dos Sapateiros, tiger prawns, garlic clams and whole fish straight off the counter ice.
Signature: Tiger prawns, Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Garlic sea bream
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato then whichever fish the counter is pushing.
Modern Portuguese€€€principe-real
Mercearia do Seculo in Lisbon's Principe Real: a grocer-turned-restaurant where reservations are essential, dried tuna, bacalhau and octopus on a tight menu.
Signature: Dried tuna starter, Bacalhau, Octopus
Order: Dried tuna starter, then the bacalhau of the day.
Grilled seafood€€alfama
Pateo 13 in Lisbon's Alfama: a courtyard tasca grilling sardines and chicken over charcoal, picnic tables, sangria, summer queues from June onwards.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Grilled mackerel, Grilled chicken
Order: Charcoal sardines straight off the grill, with boiled potatoes.
Bistro contemporary€€€chiado
Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.
Signature: Steak tartare, Roasted bone marrow, Russian-style salad
Order: The tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.
Portuguese tasca€€belem
Adega de Belem in Lisbon's Belem: a tile-walled tasca a short walk from Pasteis de Belem, bacalhau com natas, roast cod and an Alentejo wine list.
Signature: Bacalhau com natas, Roast cod, Codfish a Bras
Order: Bacalhau com natas, salt cod baked with cream and shoestring potatoes.