Pateo at Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: the glass-roofed centre court of Jose Avillez's complex, modern Portuguese mains served at long tables.
Signature dishes: Acorda real, Roast suckling pig
Must order: Acorda real, bread-and-shellfish stew with prawns and lobster.
Address: Rua Nova da Trindade 18, 1200-303 Lisboa, Lisbon
Tasca da Esquina in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon: Vitor Sobral's modern tasca, petiscos rooted in Alentejano cooking with Lusophone influences.
Signature: Croquetes of duck, Crab toast
Order: A round of petiscos, then the daily fish.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
Cantinho do Avillez at Parque das Nacoes: the Vasco da Gama centre outpost of Jose Avillez's small-plates concept, with Tagus river views from the terrace.
Signature: Black pork, Scallops with avocado
Order: Deep-fried green beans and Alentejo-style black pork.
Cafe de Sao Bento in Lisbon's Lapa: a 40-year-old steakhouse named after the parliament next door, garlic-mustard sirloin and dark wood booths.
Signature: Steak Cafe de Sao Bento, Prego no prato
Order: Bife a Cafe de Sao Bento, garlic-mustard sauce, served with shoestring chips.
Tasquinha do Lagarto in Lisbon's Campolide: a 1973 family tasca with Sporting Lisbon shirts on the walls, atum cebolada and baked octopus to share.
Signature: Atum cebolada, Polvo a lagareiro
Order: Polvo a lagareiro, baked octopus with potatoes, garlic and olive oil.
O Magano in Lisbon's Campo de Ourique: a 2002 Alentejano room from brothers Marco and Bruno Luis, petiscos and pork-with-clams done right.
Signature: Favas com chourico, Carne de porco a alentejana
Order: Carne de porco a alentejana, pork with clams, the canonical Alentejo dish.
