Tasquinha do Lagarto in Lisbon's Campolide: a 1973 family tasca with Sporting Lisbon shirts on the walls, atum cebolada and baked octopus to share.
Signature dishes: Atum cebolada, Polvo a lagareiro
Must order: Polvo a lagareiro, baked octopus with potatoes, garlic and olive oil.
Address: Rua de Campolide 258C, 1070-039 Lisboa, Lisbon
O Magano in Lisbon's Campo de Ourique: a 2002 Alentejano room from brothers Marco and Bruno Luis, petiscos and pork-with-clams done right.
Signature: Favas com chourico, Carne de porco a alentejana
Order: Carne de porco a alentejana, pork with clams, the canonical Alentejo dish.
Cervejaria Pinoquio on Lisbon's Praca dos Restauradores: a no-fuss Portuguese seafood room serving from morning to late night, clams and arroz de marisco.
Signature: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Arroz de marisco, Tiger prawns
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, clams in garlic and coriander.
Cervejaria Liberdade in Lisbon: a polished seafood hall inside the Tivoli Avenida, Berlenga gooseneck barnacles, Algarve prawns and Aveiro oysters daily.
Signature: Gooseneck barnacles, Algarve prawns, Aveiro oysters
Order: Algarve red prawns and a glass of Soalheiro Alvarinho.
Pateo at Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: the glass-roofed centre court of Jose Avillez's complex, modern Portuguese mains served at long tables.
Signature: Acorda real, Roast suckling pig
Order: Acorda real, bread-and-shellfish stew with prawns and lobster.
Tasca da Esquina in Campo de Ourique, Lisbon: Vitor Sobral's modern tasca, petiscos rooted in Alentejano cooking with Lusophone influences.
Signature: Croquetes of duck, Crab toast
Order: A round of petiscos, then the daily fish.
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
