Bairro do Avillez ★ 4.5
Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's 1000 sqm complex housing the Taberna, Pateo, Mini Bar and Pizzaria Lisboa under one roof.
OrderThe Taberna's exploding olives and a glass of Esporao branco.
Lisbon's literary heart and the home of its fine-dining boom. Belcanto, Bairro do Avillez and the Manteigaria flagship are all walkable here.

Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's 1000 sqm complex housing the Taberna, Pateo, Mini Bar and Pizzaria Lisboa under one roof.
OrderThe Taberna's exploding olives and a glass of Esporao branco.
Cantinho do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's longest-running room, open since 2011, small plates that travel from Portugal to South America.
OrderThe deep-fried green beans alongside Alentejo-style black pork.
Taberna da Rua das Flores in Chiado, Lisbon: Andre Magalhaes cooks Portugal's colonial-route flavours from a blackboard menu, cash only, no bookings.
OrderWhatever Magalhaes has chalked on the board for the day.
Boa-Bao in Chiado, Lisbon: pan-Asian street food from Thailand, Vietnam, Korea, Malaysia and Japan, served in a 1920s Asian-market themed room since 2017.
OrderTwo bao buns then the kao soi, soup-fried noodle hybrid.
Sea Me Peixaria Moderna in Chiado, Lisbon: a fishmonger that doubles as a restaurant, Portuguese seafood with a Japanese twist on Rua do Loreto.
OrderPick a fish from the counter, ask them to grill it whole.
Mini Bar Teatro in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's gastrobar in the Sao Luiz theatre, dishes named after stage terms, open from 7pm to 1am daily.
OrderThe Now On tasting menu, eight theatrical small plates.
Cervejaria Trindade in Chiado, Lisbon: an 1836 beer hall in the old Trinitarian convent, blue azulejos walls, prawns, steaks and Sagres on tap.
OrderSteak Trindade in beer sauce and a Sagres on tap.
Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star Belcanto in Lisbon's Chiado: a single tasting menu of new Portuguese cooking, on Rua Serpa Pinto since 2012.
Book4 to 6 weeks ahead
Vincent Farges's one-Michelin-star Epur in Chiado, Lisbon: Inspiracoes and Epurismo tasting menus rooted in French technique and Portuguese ingredients.
Book2 to 3 weeks ahead
Jose Avillez's vegetarian Encanto in Chiado, Lisbon: one Michelin star, a Green Star for sustainability, and the first vegetarian Michelin in Iberia.
Book3 to 4 weeks ahead
Pateo at Bairro do Avillez in Chiado, Lisbon: the glass-roofed centre court of Jose Avillez's complex, modern Portuguese mains served at long tables.
OrderAcorda real, bread-and-shellfish stew with prawns and lobster.
Bistro 100 Maneiras on Largo da Trindade in Chiado: the casual sister of 100 Maneiras in Bairro Alto, opened by Ljubomir Stanisic with late hours and a noted.
OrderThe tartare bar selection, two cuts compared side by side.
A Brasileira on Lisbon's Rua Garrett: a 1905 cafe where Fernando Pessoa drank his bica, still pouring under the same wood and brass, terrace open daily.
DrinkBica, the small black Lisbon espresso
Pastelaria Benard on Rua Garrett, Chiado: a Lisbon institution since 1868, croissants from a secret recipe and pavement tables on Lisbon's busiest street.
DrinkHot croissant from a secret 1868 recipe with a bica
Manteigaria's Chiado flagship in Lisbon: an Art Nouveau corner on Rua do Loreto where pastel de nata trays land hot every twenty minutes, 1.50 euros.
Worth the queuePastel de nata at 1.50 euros, eaten at the counter
Landeau Chocolate on Lisbon's Rua das Flores: one cake, dark chocolate mousse over moist sponge, dusted with cocoa, sliced to order behind a marble counter.
Worth the queueBolo de chocolate Landeau, dusted with cocoa
A Padaria Portuguesa's Chiado branch in Lisbon: the homegrown chain that revived the neighbourhood padaria model, croissants and breads to-go.
Worth the queueCroissant misto, ham and cheese in a flaky shell
Alcoa's Chiado pastelaria in Lisbon: the canonical Alcobaca convent-sweets shop, cornucopias and pao de lo brought down from the cloister tradition.
Worth the queueCornucopia, Alcobaca's pine-nut and egg-cream pastry
Kaffeehaus in Lisbon's Chiado: a Viennese coffeehouse on Rua Anchieta beside Alma, single-origin espresso, melange Viennese and a wood-panelled reading room.
BeansBrazil, Honduras, Ethiopia
BrewsEspresso, Filter, French press
By The Wine on Lisbon's Rua das Flores: Sogrape's tasting bar pouring its full Portuguese range glass by glass, vaulted ceiling, late hours daily.
PourCasa Ferreirinha Vinha Grande Douro tinto
WineSogrape's full Portuguese portfolio by the glass
FoodPortuguese tapas
TOPO Chiado in Lisbon: a rooftop on top of the Terracos do Carmo car park, gin and tonic with a head-on view of Castelo de Sao Jorge across the valley.
DrinkGin tonic with Castelo de Sao Jorge view
FoodSmall plates and shareables
Toca da Raposa in Lisbon's Chiado: Constanca Cordeiro's 30-seat fox-themed bar, Portuguese spirits and honey-olive-oil drinks from local farms.
DrinkCocktails built around Portuguese ingredients, honey and olive oil
FoodSnacks
O Trevo on Lisbon's Praca Luis de Camoes: the local consensus pick for bifanas at 2.50 euros, served with a beer at a stand-up counter, fast service.
TryBifana, the Lisbon pork sandwich
Ginginha do Carmo near Lisbon's Rossio station: a stand-up window pouring sour-cherry liqueur in chocolate cups for 1.65 euros, two pours in each tiny cup.
TryGinjinha shot served in a chocolate cup, near Rossio station
Cervejaria Trindade in Chiado, Lisbon: Portugal's oldest beer hall, brewing on site since 1836, blue azulejos walls, Sagres draught and Trindade steaks.
Withlocals 10 Tastings of Lisbon: a 3-hour private walk with a local guide hitting ten tastes including bifana, pastel de nata, conservas and ginjinha pours.
O Trevo on Lisbon's Praca Luis de Camoes: 2.80-euro bifanas with cheese, a stand-up beer with each, the local consensus for cheap Lisbon eats.
TryBifana with cheese
Manteigaria on Lisbon's Rua do Loreto: pastel de nata at 1.50 euros, baked every 20 minutes, eaten at the marble counter with a bica espresso.
TryPastel de nata at the counter
Dear Breakfast's Chiado branch in Lisbon: a small wood-floor room on Rua Antonio Maria Cardoso, pancakes, eggs and cold-pressed juices, weekend queues.
OrderAmerican-style pancake stack with bacon and maple.
Vegan Junkies in Lisbon's Chiado: a plant-only brunch and burger room on Rua das Flores, carrot-lox Benedicts, vegan pancakes and Portuguese natural wines.
OrderVegan eggs Benedict with smoked carrot 'salmon'.
Boa-Bao in Chiado, Lisbon: pan-Asian noodles and bao until 00:30 on weekend nights, the Bairro-Alto pre-club spot that doesn't serve cliches.
TryPad thai or bao buns
Mini Bar Teatro in Chiado, Lisbon: Jose Avillez's gastrobar in the Sao Luiz theatre, theatre-named small plates until 01:00, drinks until 02:00.
TryTheatre-named small plates
Topo Chiado on Terraços do Carmo opened in 2018 between the Convento do Carmo ruin and the Santa Justa lift, a rooftop bar with the city's most photographed.
TipEnter through the Armazéns do Chiado mall or the Carmo lift; the Santa Justa platform leans over the terrace. Daily from 11:00, late close 02:00 on weekends.

Guided tour · 2h 30m
Explore Lisbon's historic streets on a food walk. Taste piri-piri chicken, bifana, ginjinha, and pastel de nata, with full vegetarian and private options available.

Guided tour · 3 hours
Eat like a Lisbon local for a morning as you taste the foods and drinks you can't leave Portugal without trying.

Guided tour · 3.5 hours
Discover the flavors of Lisbon on a guided food and wine tour. Taste a variety of local dishes, including bifana and pastel de nata, and sip on Portuguese beer, sparkl...