Portuguese Tasca€mourariaMon-Wed 12:00-16:30, Thu-Sat 12:00-16:00, 19:00-22:00, closed Sunday
Ze dos Cornos in Lisbon's Mouraria: a tile-walled tasca on Beco dos Surradores, charcoal pork ribs at 12 euros, cash only, queue for the long table.
Signature: Garlic pork ribs, Pataniscas de bacalhau
Order: Charcoal-grilled garlic pork ribs and a jug of house red.
Modern Portuguese€€€Parque das NacoesSun-Thu 12:30-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 12:30-15:00, 19:00-24:00
Cantinho do Avillez at Parque das Nacoes: the Vasco da Gama centre outpost of Jose Avillez's small-plates concept, with Tagus river views from the terrace.
Signature: Black pork, Scallops with avocado
Order: Deep-fried green beans and Alentejo-style black pork.
Portuguese Petiscos€€Campo PequenoMon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:30, Sat 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00, closed Sunday
Petisco Saloio in Lisbon's Campo Pequeno: a tiny petisco room locals book ahead, fixed lunch menus and evening small plates, ox-tail pie and croquetes.
Signature: Croquetes, Oxtail pie, Pork cheeks with piri-piri
Order: A round of croquetes followed by pork cheeks in piri-piri sauce.
Portuguese Tasca€€principe-realMon-Sat 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, closed Sunday
Faz Frio in Lisbon's Principe Real: a 19th-century tavern with wooden booths, ox-tail, goat stew and the city's best octopus salad on a short menu.
Signature: Octopus salad, Goat stew, Peixinhos da horta
Order: Octopus salad and goat stew with rice.
Portuguese Seafood€€alfama
Solar 31 da Calcada in Lisbon's Alfama: a fish-counter restaurant grilling whole sea bass and dourada to order, with arroz de marisco for two.
Signature: Whole grilled fish, Arroz de marisco
Order: Whole sea bass from the counter, grilled, with vegetable rice.
Portuguese Seafood€€Baixa
Marisqueira Uma in Lisbon's Baixa: a long-running marisqueira on Rua dos Sapateiros, tiger prawns, garlic clams and whole fish straight off the counter ice.
Signature: Tiger prawns, Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Garlic sea bream
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato then whichever fish the counter is pushing.