Portuguese Petiscos€€Campo PequenoMon-Fri 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:30, Sat 12:00-15:00, 19:00-22:00, closed Sunday
Petisco Saloio in Lisbon's Campo Pequeno: a tiny petisco room locals book ahead, fixed lunch menus and evening small plates, ox-tail pie and croquetes.
Signature: Croquetes, Oxtail pie, Pork cheeks with piri-piri
Order: A round of croquetes followed by pork cheeks in piri-piri sauce.
Portuguese Tasca€€principe-realMon-Sat 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, closed Sunday
Faz Frio in Lisbon's Principe Real: a 19th-century tavern with wooden booths, ox-tail, goat stew and the city's best octopus salad on a short menu.
Signature: Octopus salad, Goat stew, Peixinhos da horta
Order: Octopus salad and goat stew with rice.
Portuguese Seafood€€alfama
Solar 31 da Calcada in Lisbon's Alfama: a fish-counter restaurant grilling whole sea bass and dourada to order, with arroz de marisco for two.
Signature: Whole grilled fish, Arroz de marisco
Order: Whole sea bass from the counter, grilled, with vegetable rice.
Portuguese Seafood€€Baixa
Marisqueira Uma in Lisbon's Baixa: a long-running marisqueira on Rua dos Sapateiros, tiger prawns, garlic clams and whole fish straight off the counter ice.
Signature: Tiger prawns, Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato, Garlic sea bream
Order: Ameijoas a Bulhao Pato then whichever fish the counter is pushing.
Modern Portuguese€€€principe-realTue-Sat 19:00-23:00, closed Sun-Mon
Mercearia do Seculo in Lisbon's Principe Real: a grocer-turned-restaurant where reservations are essential, dried tuna, bacalhau and octopus on a tight menu.
Signature: Dried tuna starter, Bacalhau, Octopus
Order: Dried tuna starter, then the bacalhau of the day.
Seafood€€alfamaTue-Thu 11:00-15:00, 19:00-22:30, Fri-Sun 11:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, closed Mon
Pateo 13 in Lisbon's Alfama: a courtyard tasca grilling sardines and chicken over charcoal, picnic tables, sangria, summer queues from June onwards.
Signature: Grilled sardines, Grilled mackerel, Grilled chicken
Order: Charcoal sardines straight off the grill, with boiled potatoes.