Palma's walled old town, where starred dining rooms, 1911 bakeries and barrel-lined cellers sit within four streets of each other.
El Camino is a marble counter on Carrer de Can Brondo in Palma, a wine bar in the Barcelona tapas mould pouring Mallorcan bottles with plates to order.
OrderIberian ham and manchego from the counter, with a glass of Mallorcan Callet red.
TipCounter stools only, and it books out most nights. Come at 13:00 or accept a wait.
Casa Maruka has cooked market-led Mallorcan food in Palma since 2007, run by María José Calabria and Alberto Serrano and carrying a Repsol Sol.
OrderThe suckling pig, or the oxtail stew if the kitchen is running it that day.
TipMonday is lunch only. Tuesday to Saturday the kitchen also runs an evening service from 20:00 to 23:30.
La Bodeguilla has poured Spanish regional wine on Carrer de Sant Jaume in Palma since 1986, serving regional plates and a long list without a break.
OrderA spread of regional plates, ordered against a Mallorcan bottle from the list.
TipThe kitchen runs 13:00 to 23:00 with no closure, which is rare in central Palma.
La Malvasia is a red-fronted room on Plaça del Mercat in Palma pouring Ca'n Pico Malvasia alongside Mediterranean plates and a long celiac menu.
OrderA glass of the house Malvasia with whatever fish is on the board that day.
TipOne of the few central Palma kitchens with a properly worked-out gluten-free menu.
Arume Sushi Bar has worked Carrer de Sant Miquel in Palma for years, with chef Tomeu Martí cutting Japanese plates against Mediterranean produce.
OrderThe sushi selection, cut against Mediterranean fish rather than imported stock.
TipThe kitchen shuts for the whole of August. Check before planning a late-summer dinner.
Celler Sa Premsa has poured from wine barrels near Palma's Mercat de l'Olivar since 1958, serving arròs brut, sopes mallorquines and gató almond cake.
OrderArròs brut, then gató almond cake with almond ice cream.
TipIt is the most tourist-facing of Palma's cellers, but the Mallorcan menu is the real thing.
Toque de Queda works a converted bakery on Carrer de Can Cavalleria in Palma, plating charcuterie, coques and small Italian-Mallorcan dishes.
OrderCoca with Taleggio, escalivada aubergine and walnuts, plus a plate of the Tuscan ham.
TipSummer service starts at 18:00 and the kitchen closes at 22:30. Winter adds Thursday to Saturday lunch.
Can Frasquet is an all-day bar and kitchen on Carrer d'Orfila in Palma's old town, running Mediterranean plates and burgers from 11:30 to 23:30.
OrderA burger at the bar, or a spread of tapas if you are two or more.
TipStraight-through service makes this one of the few old-town kitchens open at 17:00.
Marc Fosh holds one Michelin star in a 17th-century convent off Carrer de la Missió, cooking contemporary Mediterranean menus from Mallorcan produce.
OrderThe €69 ADN lunch menu, the cheapest way into a starred Palma dining room.
Book2 weeks ahead
TipLunch is the value play. The ADN menu runs €69 against €159 for the evening Aromas del Mediterráneo.
DINS Santi Taura is Palma's one-star Mallorcan kitchen inside Hotel El Llorenç, running a single tasting menu drawn from island recipe archives.
OrderThe set Mallorcan tasting menu, which changes with the island growing season.
Book4 weeks ahead
TipSeatings are fixed at 19:30 and 20:30, and the chef's counter runs later. Book well ahead.
Zaranda is Fernando P. Arellano's Michelin-starred dining room at Hotel Es Princep in Palma, holding one star and a Repsol Sol for its Balearic tasting menus.
OrderThe Balearic tasting menu, built around island produce and Mediterranean fish.
Book3 weeks ahead
TipOpening months shift with the season, so confirm the calendar before booking a winter trip.
Adrián Quetglas cooks Michelin-recommended modern European menus on Passeig de Mallorca in Palma, running a five-step and an eight-step tasting format.
OrderThe five-step tasting menu, the shorter of the two formats on offer.
Book1 week ahead
TipWeekday lunch seatings run 13:00 to 15:00 and are easier to get than the single evening service.
Fera sits in a restored Palma mansion on Carrer de la Concepció, folding Asian technique into Mediterranean produce across tasting and carte menus.
OrderThe lunch tasting menu, which is the best-value route into the kitchen.
Book2 weeks ahead
TipThe garden courtyard seats fill first. Ask for it when you book rather than on arrival.
Emilio Innobar works a small Palma room on Carrer de la Concepció, building raw fish plates that cross Asian technique with Mexican seasoning.
OrderLet the counter decide. The kitchen builds around whatever came off the boat that morning.
TipThere is no fixed carte on some nights. Say what you dislike and let the kitchen work around it.
Bodega La Rambla has poured vermouth and served variats on Via Roma in Palma since 1940, plating the island's combination dish across small portions.
OrderThe variat, Mallorca's combination plate, with the ensaladilla rusa on the side.
TipEvenings run Thursday to Saturday only. Sunday and Monday are lunch alone, and it shuts for a summer break in August.
La Rosa Vermutería & Colmado pours house vermouth on Carrer de la Rosa in Palma, running as a tavern, a grocery counter and a dining room at once.
OrderHouse vermouth with the thick tortilla pintxo cut from the counter.
TipOpen noon to midnight every day, which makes it the easiest fallback in the old town.
Bar Espanya stacks pintxos along the counter on Carrer de Can Escursac in Palma, with patatas bravas under sobrassada and croquettes filled with bullit.
OrderPatatas bravas topped with sobrassada, then a bullit croquette.
TipThe counter pintxos go fast. Arrive at opening, 13:00 or 18:30, for the full spread.
Celler Sa Premsa has poured from wine barrels near Palma's Mercat de l'Olivar since 1958, serving arròs brut, sopes mallorquines and gató almond cake.
OrderArròs brut, then gató almond cake with almond ice cream.
TipIt is the most tourist-facing of Palma's cellers, but the Mallorcan menu is the real thing.
La Malvasia is a red-fronted room on Plaça del Mercat in Palma pouring Ca'n Pico Malvasia alongside Mediterranean plates and a long celiac menu.
OrderA glass of the house Malvasia with whatever fish is on the board that day.
TipOne of the few central Palma kitchens with a properly worked-out gluten-free menu.
Can Frasquet is an all-day bar and kitchen on Carrer d'Orfila in Palma's old town, running Mediterranean plates and burgers from 11:30 to 23:30.
OrderA burger at the bar, or a spread of tapas if you are two or more.
TipStraight-through service makes this one of the few old-town kitchens open at 17:00.
Mistral Coffee House pours the roastery's own beans on Plaça de Weyler in Palma, with a sunny terrace facing the Modernista front of the Gran Hotel.
DrinkFilter coffee from Mistral's own roast
TipThe terrace catches morning sun. Doors close at 16:30, so this is not an evening room.
La Molienda Bisbe has roasted its own coffee in Palma since 2013, with a corner terrace on Carrer del Bisbe Campins under a flame tree and a fountain.
DrinkFilter coffee from the house Palma roast
TipOrder a llonguet with the coffee. It is the Mallorcan roll, and they do a proper one.
La Molienda Arxiduc is the second Palma coffee room of the island's specialty roaster, serving house coffee, daily lunch plates and homemade cakes.
DrinkHouse-roasted espresso
TipWeekday lunch specials sell out by 14:00. Weekends run shorter hours, 09:00 to 14:00.
Bacan is a family-run specialty counter on Carrer del Baró de Santa Maria del Sepulcre in Palma, pouring single-origin filter in an air-conditioned room.
DrinkSingle-origin pour-over
TipThere is a courtyard behind the room that most first-timers miss. Ask when you order.
Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has served hot chocolate, ensaïmada and almond ice cream on Carrer de Can Sanç in Palma since the original shop opened in the 1700s.
DrinkThick hot chocolate
TipOrder the hot chocolate with an ensaïmada to dunk. That pairing is the whole point of the room.
Forn Fondo has baked on Carrer de la Unió in Palma since 1911, now run by the fourth generation of the Llull family behind a Modernista shopfront.
Worth the queueEnsaïmada with cabell d'àngel pumpkin jam
TipMore than twenty ensaïmada varieties sit behind the glass. The plain one is the benchmark.
Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has served hot chocolate, ensaïmada and almond ice cream on Carrer de Can Sanç in Palma since the original shop opened in the 1700s.
Worth the queueEnsaïmada with hot chocolate
TipOrder the hot chocolate with an ensaïmada to dunk. That pairing is the whole point of the room.
Fornet de la Soca occupies the old Forn des Teatre on Plaça de Weyler in Palma, where Tomeu Arbona rebuilds Mallorcan recipes from convent archives.
Worth the queueCoca with peppers
TipStock is baked in small runs and sells out. Go in the morning if you want the coques.
Mistral Coffee House pours the roastery's own beans on Plaça de Weyler in Palma, with a sunny terrace facing the Modernista front of the Gran Hotel.
BeansEthiopia, Colombia, Brazil
BrewsEspresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
TipBeans are roasted on Mallorca and sold by the bag at the counter alongside the drinks.
La Molienda Bisbe has roasted its own coffee in Palma since 2013, with a corner terrace on Carrer del Bisbe Campins under a flame tree and a fountain.
BeansEthiopia, Colombia, Peru
BrewsEspresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
TipThe roast is done in Palma and the beans come from small farms. Ask what landed that month.
La Molienda Arxiduc is the second Palma coffee room of the island's specialty roaster, serving house coffee, daily lunch plates and homemade cakes.
BeansEthiopia, Colombia, Peru
BrewsEspresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
TipLa Molienda has roasted in Palma since 2013, and this room pours the same beans as the Bisbe original.
La Bodeguilla on Carrer de Sant Jaume in Palma keeps one of the city's deepest Spanish lists, poured beside regional plates from 13:00 to 23:00.
PourA Binissalem red by the glass
WineSpanish regional wines with Mallorcan DO bottles
FoodSpanish regional plates and tapas
TipIt is a restaurant that drinks like a wine bar. Sit at the bar if you only want bottles.
La Rosa Vermutería & Colmado pours house vermouth on Carrer de la Rosa in Palma, running as a tavern, a grocery counter and a dining room at once.
PourThe house vermouth on tap
WineHouse vermouth and Spanish table wines
FoodTavern plates and counter pintxos
TipVermouth hour in Palma runs before lunch. Come at 12:30 and order it with an olive plate.
Bodega La Rambla has poured vermouth and served variats on Via Roma in Palma since 1940, plating the island's combination dish across small portions.
PourVermouth with a plate of the variat
WineMallorcan table wine and vermouth
FoodVariats, tapas and raciones
TipEvenings run Thursday to Saturday only. Sunday and Monday are lunch alone, and it shuts for a summer break in August.
La Malvasia is a red-fronted room on Plaça del Mercat in Palma pouring Ca'n Pico Malvasia alongside Mediterranean plates and a long celiac menu.
PourCa'n Pico Malvasia by the glass
WineMalvasia from Ca'n Pico plus Mallorcan bottles
FoodMediterranean tapas and fresh fish
TipMalvasia is a Mallorcan white grape worth trying here before you buy a bottle elsewhere.
Can Frasquet is an all-day bar and kitchen on Carrer d'Orfila in Palma's old town, running Mediterranean plates and burgers from 11:30 to 23:30.
PourA Mallorcan red by the glass at the bar
WineSpanish and Mallorcan wines by the glass
FoodMediterranean plates and burgers
TipStraight-through service makes this one of the few old-town kitchens open at 17:00.
Brassclub has mixed cocktails on Passeig de Mallorca in Palma since 2013, under a ceiling built from more than three thousand suspended bottles.
DrinkSignature cocktails from the house list
FoodSnacks, pintxos and Mallorcan charcuterie
TipSignature cocktails run roughly €13 to €16.50. Book at weekends, the room is small.
Toutatis Bar Craft Beer pours a Belgian-leaning draught list on Plaça de Santa Magdalena in Palma, opened by a Belgian architect who settled on Mallorca.
DrinkBelgian-style craft beer
FoodBar snacks
TipOpen every evening from 17:00 to midnight, which is later than most Palma beer bars.
La Rosa Vermutería & Colmado pours house vermouth on Carrer de la Rosa in Palma, running as a tavern, a grocery counter and a dining room at once.
DrinkHouse vermouth on tap
FoodTavern plates and counter pintxos
TipOpen noon to midnight every day, which makes it the easiest fallback in the old town.
Bodega La Rambla has poured vermouth and served variats on Via Roma in Palma since 1940, plating the island's combination dish across small portions.
DrinkVermouth
FoodVariats, tapas and raciones
TipEvenings run Thursday to Saturday only. Sunday and Monday are lunch alone, and it shuts for a summer break in August.
Bar Espanya stacks pintxos along the counter on Carrer de Can Escursac in Palma, with patatas bravas under sobrassada and croquettes filled with bullit.
DrinkIsland-brewed craft beer
FoodPintxos and tapas, with vegan options marked
TipThe counter pintxos go fast. Arrive at opening, 13:00 or 18:30, for the full spread.
Can Frasquet is an all-day bar and kitchen on Carrer d'Orfila in Palma's old town, running Mediterranean plates and burgers from 11:30 to 23:30.
DrinkWine by the glass
FoodMediterranean plates and burgers
TipStraight-through service makes this one of the few old-town kitchens open at 17:00.
Bar Espanya stacks pintxos along the counter on Carrer de Can Escursac in Palma, with patatas bravas under sobrassada and croquettes filled with bullit.
TryPintxos
TipThe counter pintxos go fast. Arrive at opening, 13:00 or 18:30, for the full spread.
Forn Fondo has baked on Carrer de la Unió in Palma since 1911, now run by the fourth generation of the Llull family behind a Modernista shopfront.
TryEnsaïmada
TipBuy an ensaïmada and eat it on the street. The plain one travels better than the filled ones.
Fornet de la Soca occupies the old Forn des Teatre on Plaça de Weyler in Palma, where Tomeu Arbona rebuilds Mallorcan recipes from convent archives.
TryCoca de trampó
TipCoques are sold by the slice and eaten standing. Stock is baked in small runs, so go early.
Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has served hot chocolate, ensaïmada and almond ice cream on Carrer de Can Sanç in Palma since the original shop opened in the 1700s.
TryAlmond ice cream
TipThe almond ice cream is made in-house and travels about as far as the next street corner.
Adalt Brewing brews in small batches on Carrer de l'Arxiduc Lluís Salvador in Palma, pouring from the tank in a tasting room with a patio taproom.
TipThe line-up changes with the season and cans are sold to take away during taproom hours.
Toutatis Bar Craft Beer pours a Belgian-leaning draught list on Plaça de Santa Magdalena in Palma, opened by a Belgian architect who settled on Mallorca.
TipFounded by a Belgian architect, so the pour list leans Belgian rather than Spanish.
Mercat de l'Olivar is Palma's main covered market off Plaça d'Espanya, with fish, meat and produce below and a gastronomic floor of bars above.
TipThe gastronomic floor upstairs runs bars, restaurants and ready meals until 16:00, after the fish counters have wound down.
The Mercat Agroecològic sets up on Plaça del Bisbe Berenguer de Palou in Palma twice a week, selling certified organic produce from island growers.
TipTuesday and Saturday mornings only. This is where Palma's organic growers sell direct.
Celler Sa Premsa has poured from wine barrels near Palma's Mercat de l'Olivar since 1958, serving arròs brut, sopes mallorquines and gató almond cake.
OrderArròs brut, then gató almond cake with almond ice cream.
TipThe set lunch is the cheapest route into a proper Mallorcan celler meal in central Palma.
Bar Espanya stacks pintxos along the counter on Carrer de Can Escursac in Palma, with patatas bravas under sobrassada and croquettes filled with bullit.
OrderPatatas bravas topped with sobrassada, then a bullit croquette.
TipPintxos are priced by the stick, so a filling counter meal lands well under €15 with a beer.
Bodega La Rambla has poured vermouth and served variats on Via Roma in Palma since 1940, plating the island's combination dish across small portions.
OrderThe variat, Mallorca's combination plate, with the ensaladilla rusa on the side.
TipOne variat and a vermouth is a full lunch. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, and it shuts for a summer break in August.
Forn Fondo has baked on Carrer de la Unió in Palma since 1911, now run by the fourth generation of the Llull family behind a Modernista shopfront.
OrderA plain ensaïmada, the benchmark against which the filled ones are judged.
TipBreakfast here costs about €4 with a coffee, which undercuts every café on the Born.
Ca'n Joan de s'Aigo has served hot chocolate, ensaïmada and almond ice cream on Carrer de Can Sanç in Palma since the original shop opened in the 1700s.
OrderOrder the hot chocolate with an ensaïmada to dunk.
TipThree centuries of trade and it still costs less than a hotel breakfast. Open until 21:00.
La Malvasia is a red-fronted room on Plaça del Mercat in Palma pouring Ca'n Pico Malvasia alongside Mediterranean plates and a long celiac menu.
OrderA glass of the house Malvasia with whatever fish is on the board that day.
TipKitchen runs non-stop from 11:30, so you can eat cheaply outside Spanish meal hours.
Bacan is a family-run specialty counter on Carrer del Baró de Santa Maria del Sepulcre in Palma, pouring single-origin filter in an air-conditioned room.
OrderA single-origin pour-over with whatever toast the counter is running.
TipThere is a courtyard behind the room that most first-timers miss. Ask when you order.
La Molienda Bisbe has roasted its own coffee in Palma since 2013, with a corner terrace on Carrer del Bisbe Campins under a flame tree and a fountain.
OrderA llonguet with the house filter coffee, eaten on the plaza terrace.
TipOrder a llonguet with the coffee. It is the Mallorcan roll, and they do a proper one.
La Molienda Arxiduc is the second Palma coffee room of the island's specialty roaster, serving house coffee, daily lunch plates and homemade cakes.
OrderThe daily lunch plate with a house-roasted espresso.
TipWeekday lunch specials sell out by 14:00. Weekends run shorter hours, 09:00 to 14:00.
Brassclub has mixed cocktails on Passeig de Mallorca in Palma since 2013, under a ceiling built from more than three thousand suspended bottles.
OrderA signature cocktail with a plate of Mallorcan cured meats.
TipSignature cocktails run roughly €13 to €16.50. Book at weekends, the room is small.
La Rosa Vermutería & Colmado pours house vermouth on Carrer de la Rosa in Palma, running as a tavern, a grocery counter and a dining room at once.
OrderHouse vermouth with the thick tortilla pintxo cut from the counter.
TipOpen noon to midnight every day, which makes it the easiest fallback in the old town.
Bar Espanya stacks pintxos along the counter on Carrer de Can Escursac in Palma, with patatas bravas under sobrassada and croquettes filled with bullit.
OrderPatatas bravas topped with sobrassada, then a bullit croquette.
TipEvening service starts at 18:30 and runs to midnight. Sundays it does not open at all.
Toutatis Bar Craft Beer pours a Belgian-leaning draught list on Plaça de Santa Magdalena in Palma, opened by a Belgian architect who settled on Mallorca.
OrderWhatever Belgian-style pour is on the board that evening.
TipOpen every evening from 17:00 to midnight, which is later than most Palma beer bars.
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