1920s art deco neighbourhood that wraps Parque Mexico and Parque Espana, with El Tizoncito al pastor on Tamaulipas, La Clandestina mezcaleria, Lardo and the densest dog park kitchens in the city.
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta opened in 2015.
OrderThe wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
TipOpen all day from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins land best at 11:00 weekdays.
Merotoro in Mexico City is chef Jair Tellez's Condesa kitchen on Amsterdam, the Baja-California-rooted room that put Ensenada produce on the Mexico City.
OrderThe whole grilled fish for two; the seasonal Valle de Guadalupe wine list.
TipClosed Sundays; the high counter seats face the open kitchen and book first.
Merotoro in Mexico City is chef Jair Tellez's Condesa room on Amsterdam, the Baja-California-rooted kitchen ranked on the Latin America 50 Best list.
OrderThe whole grilled fish for two; a Valle de Guadalupe bottle from the wine list.
Book2 weeks ahead
TipClosed Sundays; the bar counter facing the open kitchen books first.
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' Condesa room on Agustin Melgar since 2015, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta, open from breakfast.
OrderThe wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
TipOpen from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins easier at 11:00 weekdays than 14:00.
Azul Condesa in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Condesa room on Nuevo Leon, the regional Mexican kitchen that tours a different Mexican state.
OrderThe mole negro de Oaxaca; whichever state is featured that month.
TipClosed Sunday dinner; the rotating monthly menu is announced on Instagram. Daughter of Azul Historico in Centro.
Molino El Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's Condesa heirloom-corn cafe on Sinaloa, the daytime molino that grinds native maize for tlacoyos.
OrderA tlacoyo de haba; a quesadilla de masa azul de huitlacoche; a torta of the day.
TipOpen daily 08:00-18:00. The blue-corn tortillas to take home are sold in stacks at the counter; the public is welcome to watch the milling.
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Sonora-import battered-fish taqueria with multiple branches; the Condesa stand on Atlixco runs the standing-counter style.
OrderTwo tacos de pescado capeado; one taco de camaron; salsa cremosa.
TipStand-up counters; no reservations. Open 12:00-22:00 daily. Cash preferred.
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles and huevos divorciados, a regular Sunday brunch.
OrderChilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
TipDaily 07:30-22:00. Walks-ins fill by 09:30 Sunday; arrive earlier or expect a 30 minute wait for the patio.
Cafebreria El Pendulo Condesa in Mexico City is the multi-floor bookstore cafe on Nuevo Leon since 1993, the wood-floor balcony reading room with brunch.
DrinkMexican chocolate with espresso
Blend Station in Mexico City is the Condesa daytime work cafe on Tamaulipas, a multi-floor specialty coffee room with wifi-friendly seats and a roastery.
DrinkMocha latte
Tierra Garat in Mexico City is the Mexican-coffee chain that pours cafe de olla, atole and Mexican chocolate; the Condesa Tamaulipas branch is the closest.
DrinkCafe de olla
Chiquitito Cafe in Mexico City is the Condesa six-seat espresso bar on Alfonso Reyes, a tiny no-laptop counter that built its reputation on barista training.
DrinkEspresso
Joselo in Mexico City is the Condesa park-front cafe on Avenida Mexico across from Parque Mexico, a daytime room with house-baked pan dulce and a strong.
DrinkLatte with concha
Pasteleria Suiza in Mexico City is the 1942 Condesa bakery facing Parque Espana, the Spanish-Catalan-Swiss bake shop now in its third generation that put out.
Worth the queuePan de muerto
Tout Chocolat in Mexico City is the Condesa chocolate counter on Amsterdam Street, the Luis Robledo chocolaterie that sources Mexican single-origin cacao.
Worth the queueChocolate de mesa
Cayetana Panaderia in Mexico City is the small Hipodromo Condesa bakery on Calle Celaya between Roma Sur and Condesa, a four-table room where the maple-bacon.
Worth the queueRollo de tocino con maple (weekends only)
Felina in Mexico City is the Condesa cocktail-and-wine bar on Ometusco, an Italian-leaning bottle list with a strong glass-pour program and a leather.
PourMexican Cuatro Cuatros by the glass
WineMexican and European wines by the glass
FoodSnacks and charcuterie
La Clandestina in Mexico City is the Condesa mezcaleria on Alvaro Obregon, a 15-year-old room with 25 artisanal Oaxacan mezcales arranged like.
DrinkEspadin and Tobala flight
FoodSnacks
Baltra Bar in Mexico City is the Condesa speakeasy on Iztaccihuatl by Limantour's Benjamin Padron, a Darwin-and-Galapagos-themed cocktail bar.
DrinkDarwin-themed cocktails
FoodBar snacks
El Tizoncito in Mexico City is the 1966 Condesa taqueria on Tamaulipas that claims to have invented the modern tacos al pastor served on a small corn.
OrderFour tacos al pastor con pina; a side of grilled green onions.
TipThe Tamaulipas original holds the strictest quality control; the sister branches scattered across Polanco and other neighbourhoods are looser.
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria chain on Altata since 1980, the late-night al carbon counter that runs to 04:00 and is the standard Condesa.
OrderTres tacos campechanos; one taco gaonera; a side of esquites.
TipLate night runs hot; the Altata flagship has the longest hours. El Califa de Leon on San Cosme is the sibling that earned a 2024 Michelin star.
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles.
OrderEsquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
TipCash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.
Drunkendog in Mexico City is the Condesa craft beer taproom on Avenida Nuevo Leon next to Parque Espana, a long bar with 38 rotating taps split.
Devoured Tours' Eat up / Drink up walk, run by Anais Martinez (The Curious Mexican), pairs the best Condesa and Roma street-food bites with natural wines.
Mexico Soul and Essence in Mexico City is the Condesa cooking class on Amsterdam Street, a half-day session on home cooking with hand-pressed tortillas.
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Condesa Citlaltepetl evening cart where an esquite with mayo, cotija, chile and lime runs about 50 to 60 pesos.
TryEsquites cup with elote
El Pescadito in Mexico City is the Condesa Sonora-style fish-taco counter on Atlixco where two battered-fish tacos with salsa cremosa run about 130 pesos.
TryTwo pescado capeado tacos
El Tizoncito in Mexico City is the 1966 Condesa al pastor taqueria where four tacos with pineapple run about 140 pesos at sidewalk tables along Tamaulipas.
TryFour tacos al pastor with pina
Maque in Mexico City is the Condesa morning room on Ozuluama on the Parque Mexico spine, the brunch counter that pairs handmade pan dulce with chilaquiles.
OrderChilaquiles verdes with chicken; a concha de vainilla; cafe de olla.
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' Condesa all-day room with a strong wood-fired-flatbread brunch and Mediterranean morning plates that run from 08:00.
OrderWood-fired flatbread with eggs; Roma garden tomato salad.
Cafebreria El Pendulo Condesa in Mexico City is the multi-floor bookstore cafe on Nuevo Leon since 1993, the wood-floor balcony reading room with weekend.
OrderMexican chocolate with espresso shot; French toast with cajeta.
El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria on Altata that runs till 04:00 daily, the late-night al carbon counter and the go-to Condesa post-bar stop.
TryCampechano and gaonera tacos
Salon Pata Negra in Mexico City on Tamaulipas in Condesa is the upstairs floor of the Spanish-style bar at the corner of Juan Escutia, where salsa, cumbia and reggaeton run live and recorded across a small dance floor most nights of the week.
Caradura in Mexico City on Avenida Nuevo Leon in Condesa is the underground rock room with black curtains and red lights, programming local outfits and visiting international acts like Phantogram and Denver on a small stage almost every night.
Felina in Mexico City on Calle Ometusco in Hipodromo Condesa is the tucked-away mid-century room with rum-led cocktails, mid-century furniture and obscure soul on the playlist, with a regular crowd of regulars who treat it like a Condesa living room.
Baltra Bar in Mexico City on Calle Iztaccihuatl at the Amsterdam corner in Hipodromo Condesa is the small Galapagos-themed cocktail room from the Limantour team, ranked on the Worlds 50 Best Bars list in 2023, with exotic-ingredient drinks and a tropical interior.
Tom's Leather Bar in Mexico City on Avenida Insurgentes Sur in Hipodromo Condesa is the men-only multi-level cruise bar inspired by the Tom of Finland illustrations, with a dark room, go-go dancers on the tables and adult films on the screens.
Salon Malafama in Mexico City on Avenida Michoacan in Hipodromo Condesa is the see-and-be-seen pool hall with art exhibits on the walls, sports on the screens, a kitchen of Mexican pub plates and a long list of mezcal and craft beer, cash-only at the bar.
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