Cobblestone southern neighbourhood that holds the Frida Kahlo Museum, the Mercado de Coyoacan tostada counters, Cafe Negro on Centenario and weekend churros at Casino de Coyoacan on the plaza.
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan plaza-side Oaxacan kitchen on Jardin del Centenario, the room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: The mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move. Open daily.
El Tajin in Mexico City is the Centro Veracruzano Mexican kitchen inside the Centro Veracruzano on Miguel Angel de Quevedo in Coyoacan, the room that runs Veracruz cuisine at fine-dining depth.
Order: The arroz a la tumbada; the mole xiqueño.
Tip: Closed Sundays after lunch. The garden patio is the seat; the Veracruz seafood menu changes weekly.
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan Jardin del Centenario Oaxacan kitchen, the plaza-side room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: Mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move.
Cafe Negro Coyoacan in Mexico City is the cobblestone-street cafe on Centenario near Plaza Hidalgo, a Mexican-only roaster that sources from Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla and Guerrero and pulls espresso on a manual lever.
Signature drink: Mexican single-origin filter
Cafe Avellaneda in Mexico City is the Coyoacan hole-in-the-wall espresso bar on Higuera, the no-laptop seven-seat counter where barista Geovanni Salas pulls some of the most precise espresso south of Roma.
Signature drink: Pour-over Chiapas
Panaderia Aldama in Mexico City is the Coyoacan French-Mexican bakery on Aldama, a small counter that puts out sourdough, croissants and stuffed conchas that draw a weekend queue across Plaza Hidalgo.
Worth the queue: Concha rellena
Cafe Negro in Mexico City is the Coyoacan all-Mexican roaster on Centenario, sourcing from small-scale Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla and Guerrero farms and pulling espresso on a manual lever machine.
Sources from: Chiapas, Oaxaca, Puebla, Guerrero
How they serve: Espresso, Chemex, Whole bean retail
Tostadas Coyoacan in Mexico City is the cluster of yellow-and-orange-signed tostada stalls inside Mercado de Coyoacan on Ignacio Allende, the city's most-photographed tostada counter near the Frida Kahlo Museum.
Try: Tostadas de mariscos and tinga
Order: One tostada de pulpo; one tostada de tinga; a tostada de pata.
Tip: Arrive before 14:00 for the freshest mariscos and to avoid the post-Frida crowd. Cash only; tostadas run 60 to 90 pesos each.
Mercado de Coyoacan in Mexico City is the southern neighbourhood market on Ignacio Allende near the Frida Kahlo Museum, a 350-vendor traditional market with the yellow-and-orange Tostadas Coyoacan stalls at its core.
Feria del Tamal at the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares in Coyoacan runs late January through early February for Candelaria, with 50-plus producers serving regional Mexican tamales and atole.
Mexican Home Cooking School in Mexico City is the Coyoacan home class run by Estela Salas and family, a Tuesday-Saturday class that walks the Mercado de Coyoacan before cooking moles and tamales.
Tostadas Coyoacan in Mexico City is the Mercado de Coyoacan tostada stalls on Ignacio Allende where two large tostadas with tinga, pata or pulpo run about 140 pesos with a fresh agua.
Try: Two tostadas de tinga and pata