Mexican seafood$$$roma-norte
Contramar in Mexico City is the Gabriela Camara-run Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the lunch-only kitchen that built its name on the tuna tostada and the split-color pescado a la talla.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, half red half green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; lines start at 13:00. Walk-ins land easier on Mondays than mid-week.
Mexican-Mediterranean$$$condesa
Lardo in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' all-day Condesa room on Agustin Melgar since 2015, the Mediterranean wood-fired sister of Rosetta that runs from morning eggs to late dinner pasta.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbreads, Pasta, Brunch plates
Order: The wood-fired flatbread of the day; the brunch eggs with Roma garden tomatoes.
Tip: Open from breakfast; the corner-window two-tops fill first. Walks-ins easier at 11:00 weekdays than 14:00.
Mexican-Mediterranean breakfast$$roma-norte
Lalo in Mexico City is chef Eduardo Garcia's all-day Roma Norte counter on Zacatecas since 2014, the Maximo Bistrot casual sister with communal tables and breakfast that runs to noon.
Signature: Huevos rancheros, Chilaquiles, Croque-madame
Order: The huevos con chorizo; the chilaquiles verdes; a Mexican wine by the glass.
Tip: Walks-ins only; arrive before 09:00 weekends or expect a wait. Closed for full service Sunday afternoon.
Traditional Mexican$$centro-historico
El Cardenal Centro in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico breakfast room on Palma, the Sunday-morning institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.
Signature: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada
Order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada in season.
Tip: Sunday brunch fills by 09:30; arrive at opening at 08:00 to avoid the wait. Three other branches across the city.
Regional Mexican$$$condesa
Azul Condesa in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Condesa room on Nuevo Leon, the regional Mexican kitchen that tours a different Mexican state on a rotating menu every month.
Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Tlacoyos
Order: The mole negro de Oaxaca; whichever state is featured that month.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner; the rotating monthly menu is announced on Instagram. Daughter of Azul Historico in Centro.
Traditional Mexican breakfast$del-valle
Fonda Margarita in Mexico City is the Del Valle morning fonda on Adolfo Prieto since 1948, the open-air breakfast counter that has fed cabbies and politicians the same plates for over seven decades.
Signature: Huevos rancheros, Frijoles puercos, Chilaquiles
Order: Huevos con chorizo; frijoles refritos con asiento; chilaquiles verdes.
Tip: Open Tue-Sun 06:30 to 12:00, closed Mondays. Arrive before 09:00 or expect a 30 minute wait on the street.