Molino El Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's Condesa heirloom-corn cafe on Sinaloa, the daytime molino that grinds native maize for tlacoyos, tortillas and tamales open to the public.
Signature dishes: Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul, Tortillas de comal
Must order: A tlacoyo de haba; a quesadilla de masa azul de huitlacoche; a torta of the day.
Tip: Open daily 08:00 to 18:00. The blue-corn tortillas to take home are sold in stacks at the counter; the public is welcome to watch the milling.
Address: Sinaloa 217, Hipodromo Condesa, Cuauhtemoc, 06170 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Los Danzantes in Mexico City is the Coyoacan Jardin del Centenario Oaxacan kitchen, the plaza-side room that pairs house-distilled Los Danzantes mezcal with a black-mole tasting menu.
Signature: Mole negro, Quesillo tetela, Mezcal flight
Order: Mole negro with chicken; a flight of the house Espadin, Tobala and Madrecuixe mezcales.
Tip: Terrace seats face the plaza but get loud weekends; the upstairs interior is the quieter move.
San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant on Diego Rivera, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room where the Margarita Sabra anchors Saturday brunch under the bougainvillea.
Signature: Chiles en nogada, Sopa de tortilla, Margarita Sabra
Order: Chiles en nogada (July to September); sopa de tortilla year round; the Margarita Sabra.
Tip: Book two weeks ahead for Saturday lunch on the patio. Mariachi runs Sunday afternoon.
El Bajio in Mexico City is chef Carmen Titita Ramirez's Veracruz-rooted regional Mexican kitchen with the Polanco branch on Alejandro Dumas, the dependable daytime stop for tamales and mole.
Signature: Carnitas, Empanadas de platano, Mole de Xico
Order: Carnitas; empanadas de platano relleno de frijol; tamal de mole.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to 22:00. The Azcapotzalco original is the deeper room for Veracruz regional depth.
El Parnita in Mexico City is the Roma Norte antojitos kitchen on Yucatan since 2010, a casual modern Mexican room with hand-rolled tortillas and a tight chipotle-fish taco menu.
Signature: Tacos de pescado al chipotle, Pulpo a la brasa, Tamales
Order: Tacos de pescado al chipotle; pulpo a la brasa; the tamal of the day.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Lunch service runs the heaviest; the patio is dog friendly. Walks-ins land most days.
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend barbacoa pit on Campeche, the maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning with Hidalgo-style platefuls.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: Barbacoa de borrego with consomé and pancita on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00 to 18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out before noon.
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: The daily handwritten menu; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: Ten counter seats; no reservations. Open Wed-Sun 13:00 to 19:00; arrive at opening with cash.
