El Califa in Mexico City is the Condesa taqueria chain on Altata since 1980, the late-night al carbon counter that runs to 04:00 and is the go-to Condesa post-bar stop.
Must order: Tres tacos campechanos; one taco gaonera; a side of esquites.
Tip: Late night runs hot; the Altata flagship has the longest hours. El Califa de Leon on San Cosme is the sibling that earned a 2024 Michelin star.
Address: Altata 22, Condesa, Cuauhtemoc, 06100 Ciudad de Mexico, Mexico City
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles styrofoam cups past 22:00 with the classic mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime garnish.
Try: Esquites and elotes
Order: Esquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
Tip: Cash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.
Tacos El Califa de Leon in Mexico City is the San Rafael trompo-cut taqueria on Ribera de San Cosme, the world's first taqueria to earn a Michelin star in the 2024 Mexico guide.
Try: Taco gaonera
Order: The taco gaonera; the taco al pastor; the green and red house salsas.
Tip: Tiny standing counter; lines run two hours since the Michelin star landed. Cash only. Open lunch and into the evening.
Tlacoyos Dona Jose in Mexico City is the Roma Norte breakfast comal on Cordoba, the comal-griddle counter that puts out blue-corn tlacoyos filled with frijol or haba most weekday mornings.
Try: Tlacoyos
Order: Two tlacoyos de haba topped with nopales, queso fresco and salsa verde.
Tip: Cash only and weekday mornings only; the queue forms around 09:00 with neighbourhood regulars. Last sale is when the masa runs out.
Tamales Dona Emi in Mexico City is the Roma Norte morning tamal cart on the corner of Alvaro Obregon and Cordoba, the weekday breakfast stand that wraps verde, rojo, mole and sweet tamales by 11:00.
Try: Tamales and atole
Order: A guajolota (tamal in a torta) with atole de fresa; one tamal mole on the side.
Tip: Open until the masa is gone, usually by noon. Cash only; the regulars start queueing at 07:30 on weekdays.
Esquites Don Fermin in Mexico City is the Hipodromo Condesa evening cart on Citlaltepetl at Insurgentes Sur, a long-running esquites stand that ladles styrofoam cups past 22:00 with the classic mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime garnish.
Try: Esquites and elotes
Order: Esquites with mayo, cotija, chile piquin and lime; an elote on the cob to go.
Tip: Cash only; an esquite goes for about 40 pesos. The cart is mobile; check Instagram for the night's exact corner.
Churreria El Moro in Mexico City is the 1935 Centro Historico churros counter on Eje Central, the 24-hour churro and chocolate window that still pipes hot churros out the same fryer past midnight.
Try: Churros con chocolate
Order: A half-dozen churros with chocolate espanol (the thickest of the four chocolates on offer).
Tip: The Centro flagship runs 24 hours. The newer Roma branches close at midnight; visit the original for the relic counter.
Tortas El Cuadrilatero in Mexico City is the Centro torta counter on Luis Moya owned by Super Astro the luchador, walls covered in masks and the menu built around the kilogram Gladiador torta challenge.
Try: Lucha-libre tortas
Order: The Gladiador kilogram torta if you can; otherwise the regular Pierna with chipotle and queso Oaxaca.
Tip: Closed Sundays; the Gladiador is free if you finish in 15 minutes. Cash only and arrive hungry.
