Traditional MexicanChef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo$$$$MXN 1,200azcapotzalcoBook 1 week ahead
Nicos in Mexico City is chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco kitchen on Cuitlahuac, the slow-cook Mexican room ranked on the Latin America 50.
Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas casserole.
Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; lunch is when the slow-cooked moles peak.
MexicanChef Paco Ruano$$$$MXN 2,000polancoBook 2 weeks ahead
Alcalde in Mexico City is chef Paco Ruano's Polanco room on Masaryk, the Guadalajara-import tasting kitchen that brought modern Jalisco cooking.
Order: The seasonal tasting; the chile en nogada when in season July to September.
Tip: Closed Sundays. The bar pours strong Mexican wine and mezcal; the open kitchen seats are the move.
Veracruz MexicanChef Alicia Gironella DAngeli$$$$MXN 1,400coyoacanBook 1 week ahead
El Tajin in Mexico City is the Centro Veracruzano Mexican kitchen inside the Centro Veracruzano on Miguel Angel de Quevedo in Coyoacan, the room that runs.
Order: The arroz a la tumbada; the mole xiqueño.
Tip: Closed Sundays after lunch. The garden patio is the seat; the Veracruz seafood menu changes weekly.
Contemporary MexicanChef Enrique Olvera$$$$MXN 4,500polancoBook 4 to 6 weeks ahead
Pujol in Mexico City is Enrique Olvera's two-Michelin-star Polanco tasting room on Tennyson, the kitchen that built modern Mexican fine dining around mole.
Order: The Mole Madre Mole Nuevo at the dining-room table; taco omakase at the bar.
Tip: Lunch is the easier service to land than dinner; the bar runs an a la carte taco omakase for walk-ins on quieter nights.
Contemporary MexicanChef Jorge Vallejo$$$$MXN 3,900polancoBook 6 weeks ahead
Quintonil in Mexico City is Jorge Vallejo and Alejandra Flores' two-Michelin-star Polanco tasting room on Newton, the kitchen ranked number three.
Order: The full tasting menu; the charred avocado tartare is the signature.
Tip: Closed Sundays.
Modern Mexican Vegetable-drivenChef Edgar Nunez$$$$MXN 2,500pedregalBook 3 weeks ahead
Sud 777 in Mexico City is Edgar Nunez's one-Michelin-star Pedregal kitchen on Boulevard de la Luz, the 12-course vegetable-driven Mexican tasting menu opened.
Order: The 12-course tasting; the cactus and corn course from the in-house garden.
Tip: Closed Sundays; worth the cab south from Polanco for the courtyard dining and the kitchen garden.