Mexican seafood$$$roma-norte
Contramar in Mexico City is Gabriela Camara's lunch-only Durango Street seafood room in Roma Norte since 1998, the kitchen that made the tuna tostada Mexico City's most-copied dish.
Signature: Tuna tostada, Pescado a la talla, Fish tacos
Order: The tuna tostada and the pescado a la talla, split red and green down the middle.
Tip: Open lunch only; arrive by 13:00 or expect a 45 minute wait. Half the dining room books out for the same lunch every Wednesday.
Modern Mexican with French technique$$$roma-norte
Maximo Bistrot in Mexico City is chef Eduardo Lalo Garcia's one-Michelin-star Roma Norte room on Alvaro Obregon, the seasonal Mexican kitchen with a French bistro spine since 2011.
Signature: Seasonal tasting, Market vegetables, Hand-rolled pastas
Order: The seasonal tasting menu; whatever vegetable arrives that morning from the chef's farm.
Tip: Closed Mondays; book three weeks ahead. The taller dining room moved to Alvaro Obregon in 2021 from the original Tonala location.
Mexican-Italian$$$roma-norte
Rosetta in Mexico City is Elena Reygadas' one-Michelin-star Roma Norte room in a 1920s townhouse on Colima, the kitchen where Italian technique meets Mexican market produce.
Signature: Hand-rolled pastas, Hoja santa ravioli, Tasting menu
Order: The hoja santa ravioli; the seasonal pasta of the week.
Tip: Closed Sundays; sister Panaderia Rosetta is across the street for morning conchas. Reygadas was named World's Best Female Chef 2023.
Em ★ 4.7
Contemporary Mexican with Japanese influence$$$$roma-norte
Em in Mexico City is chef Luis Lucho Martinez's one-Michelin-star Roma Norte tasting room on Tonala, the contemporary Mexican kitchen with Japanese influences that earned a star in the 2024 first Mexico guide.
Signature: Tasting menu, Wagyu carnitas, Smoked fish
Order: The full tasting menu; the wagyu carnitas course is the room's signature.
Tip: Closed Sundays and Mondays; tasting menu only. Book three weeks ahead via OpenTable. Originally opened as Emilia in 2018 before relocating.
Hidalgo barbacoa$$roma-norte
El Hidalguense in Mexico City is the Roma Sur weekend-only barbacoa pit on Campeche, the Hidalgo-style maguey-pit lamb that fills the room from Friday through Sunday morning.
Signature: Barbacoa de borrego, Consomé de borrego, Pancita
Order: The barbacoa de borrego with consomé; the pancita stew on the side.
Tip: Open Friday to Sunday only, 07:00 to 18:00. Arrive by 09:30 Sunday or the consomé runs out by noon.
Heirloom-corn Mexican$$roma-norte
Expendio de Maiz in Mexico City is chef Jesus Salas' tiny no-reservations heirloom-corn counter on Yucatan in Roma Norte, the kitchen that built its name on native masa from Oaxaca and Tlaxcala.
Signature: Heirloom-corn tortillas, Tlacoyos, Quesadillas de masa azul
Order: Whatever the daily handwritten menu lists; the blue-corn tlacoyo with squash blossoms.
Tip: No reservations; only ten counter seats. Open Wed-Sun 13:00 to 19:00; arrive at opening and bring cash.