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Roman TrattoriaTrastevere
Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.
OrderCarbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.
TipNo bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.
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Modern RomanOstiense
Trattoria Pennestri in Rome's Ostiense, opened 2017 by Tommaso Pennestri, runs the Roman canon with farmer-named meat sourcing. Priced at €€.
OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, pajata when it's on, and any seasonal antipasto from the chalkboard.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is much easier to book than the 20:30 dinner seating.
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Modern RomanEsquilino
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
OrderThe trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipBook three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
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Roman TrattoriaTrastevere
Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome's western Trastevere edge, run by Leonardo Vignoli, is the locals' Sunday trattoria. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
OrderThe fried cacio e pepe cup, polpette di bollito, and a quartino of house red.
TipTake tram 8 from Trastevere to the end of the line. Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch.
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ItalianTestaccio
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
OrderRigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipThe cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
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Roman TrattoriaTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
OrderThe four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.