Italian€€€testaccioWed-Sun 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00, Mon-Tue closed
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Coda alla vaccinara, Animelle
Order: Rigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
Tip: The cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
Roman Trattoria€€testaccioMon-Sat 12:45-15:00, 19:45-23:30, Sun closed
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
Signature: Cacio e pepe, Gricia, Carbonara
Order: The four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
Roman-jewish€€jewish-ghettoMon-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-15:00, Sat 20:30-23:00, Sun 12:00-23:00
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Aliciotti con l'indivia
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
Tip: Kosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
Roman-jewish€€jewish-ghettoMon, Wed-Sun 12:15-15:00, 18:30-22:00, Tue closed
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.
Signature: Carciofo alla giudia, Filetti di baccalà, Concia di zucchine
Order: Carciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
Tip: Open Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.
Modern Roman€€montiMon-Fri 20:00-23:00, Sat 12:30-15:00, 20:00-23:00, Sun closed
Trecca in Rome reads the Lazio mountain cucina through a young-kitchen lens. Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e cicoria, Coda alla vaccinara, Polpette al sugo
Order: Tortelli of ricotta and cicoria, polpette al sugo, and a glass of Cesanese.
Tip: Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
Modern Roman€€€centro-storicoTue-Sun 12:30-15:30, 19:00-23:00, Mon closed
Pianostrada in Rome's Regola district is the all-female kitchen behind the focaccia di Pianostrada (rosemary, mortadella, stracciatella) and the modern Roman.
Signature: Focaccia, Polpette di bollito, Tagliolini cacio e pepe
Order: The mortadella-and-stracciatella focaccia and the tagliolini cacio e pepe.
Tip: The garden seats book six weeks out for summer. Closed Monday all day.