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ItalianTestaccio
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
OrderRigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipThe cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
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Roman TrattoriaTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
OrderThe four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
TipKosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
TipOpen Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.
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Modern RomanMonti
Trecca in Rome reads the Lazio mountain cucina through a young-kitchen lens. Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
OrderTortelli of ricotta and cicoria, polpette al sugo, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipClosed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
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Modern RomanCentro Storico
Pianostrada in Rome's Regola district is the all-female kitchen behind the focaccia di Pianostrada (rosemary, mortadella, stracciatella) and the modern Roman.
OrderThe mortadella-and-stracciatella focaccia and the tagliolini cacio e pepe.
TipThe garden seats book six weeks out for summer. Closed Monday all day.