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Roman TrattoriaTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
OrderThe four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
TipKosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
TipOpen Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.
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Modern RomanMonti
Trecca in Rome reads the Lazio mountain cucina through a young-kitchen lens. Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
OrderTortelli of ricotta and cicoria, polpette al sugo, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipClosed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
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Modern RomanCentro Storico
Pianostrada in Rome's Regola district is the all-female kitchen behind the focaccia di Pianostrada (rosemary, mortadella, stracciatella) and the modern Roman.
OrderThe mortadella-and-stracciatella focaccia and the tagliolini cacio e pepe.
TipThe garden seats book six weeks out for summer. Closed Monday all day.
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ItalianMonti
Trattoria Monti in Rome reads the Marchigiano kitchen, the Camerano family's home region, through a Roman lens. Kitchen leans le marche / roman.
OrderThe tortino di carciofi, the coniglio in porchetta, and an Offida Pecorino white.
TipClosed Sunday dinner and Monday all day. Book three weeks out; 30 seats only.