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Modern RomanEsquilino
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
OrderThe trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipBook three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
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Roman TrattoriaTrastevere
Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome's western Trastevere edge, run by Leonardo Vignoli, is the locals' Sunday trattoria. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
OrderThe fried cacio e pepe cup, polpette di bollito, and a quartino of house red.
TipTake tram 8 from Trastevere to the end of the line. Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch.
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ItalianTestaccio
Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.
OrderRigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.
TipThe cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.
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Roman TrattoriaTestaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome's Testaccio is the small-room trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas exactly as the rulebook says.
OrderThe four Roman pastas tasting if it's offered, otherwise the gricia and cacio e pepe.
TipClosed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Ba'Ghetto in Rome's Jewish Ghetto serves the cucina giudaico-romanesca canon under kosher supervision. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman-jewish.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, aliciotti con l'indivia and the spaghetti with anchovies.
TipKosher kitchen; closed Friday evening through Saturday lunch. Book ahead for Sunday lunch.
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Roman-jewishJewish Ghetto
Nonna Betta in Rome's Jewish Ghetto runs the giudaico-romanesca menu with a wider modern carte than the strictly-kosher houses. Priced at €€.
OrderCarciofo alla giudia, concia di zucchine and the spaghetti with bottarga.
TipOpen Saturday lunch; not strictly kosher but recipes follow the Roman-Jewish tradition.