Roman Trattoria€€testaccioDaily 12:30-15:30, 19:00-23:30
Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Saltimbocca alla romana, Tiramisu
Order: The tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.
Roman Trattoria€€testaccioDaily 12:30-15:00, 19:45-22:45
Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Polpette al sugo, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.
Tip: The amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.
Roman Trattoria€€trastevereMon-Sat 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00, Sun closed
Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.
Signature: Carbonara, Cacio e pepe, Carciofo alla giudia
Order: Carbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.
Tip: No bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.
Modern Roman€€ostienseTue-Thu 19:00-23:00, Fri-Sun 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00, Mon closed
Trattoria Pennestri in Rome's Ostiense, opened 2017 by Tommaso Pennestri, runs the Roman canon with farmer-named meat sourcing. Priced at €€.
Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Pajata, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe
Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, pajata when it's on, and any seasonal antipasto from the chalkboard.
Tip: Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is much easier to book than the 20:30 dinner seating.
Modern Roman€€esquilinoDaily 12:30-14:45, 19:30-23:30
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
Signature: Trippa alla romana, Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette al sugo
Order: The trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
Roman Trattoria€€trastevereThu-Tue 12:30-15:00, 19:30-23:00, Wed closed
Da Cesare al Casaletto in Rome's western Trastevere edge, run by Leonardo Vignoli, is the locals' Sunday trattoria. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
Signature: Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, Polpette di bollito, Coda alla vaccinara
Order: The fried cacio e pepe cup, polpette di bollito, and a quartino of house red.
Tip: Take tram 8 from Trastevere to the end of the line. Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch.