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SeafoodEsquilino
Chinappi in Rome's Castro Pretorio quarter is the Formia fish family's city dining room, with three tasting menus and a 200-label cellar behind the seafood.
OrderThe menu a sorpresa, a multi-course set chosen by Stefano Chinappi from the day's catch.
TipClosed Monday. The set menus are the way in; the a la carte fish is priced by weight, so ask before ordering.
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RomanCentro Storico
Clotilde in Rome's Centro Storico is Clemente Quaglia's 1996 dining room near Piazza Cardelli, where Roman and Ciociaria cooking share the menu with seafood.
OrderCacio e pepe with fried courgette, then the alici abbottonate from the sea side of the menu.
TipClosed Monday and Tuesday lunch. The owner named the place for his mother; ask for the Ciociaria dishes.
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Contemporary ItalianParioli
Spazio Niko Romito in Rome's Parioli is the Abruzzo chef's all-day bar and kitchen on Piazza Verdi, running from Italian breakfast to lunch and afternoon tea.
OrderThe fried chicken, the dish the place is known for, with a filled bomba to finish.
TipOpen 07:30-17:00 on weekdays and from 08:00 at weekends, so this is a breakfast and lunch stop, not a dinner booking.
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ChineseCentro Storico
Oolong in Rome's Centro Storico is Jiang Yan's small Chinese dining room on Piazza San Paolo alla Regola, cooking imperial recipes and eight regional schools.
OrderThe lacquered duck served in three courses, ordered when you book, plus the four-flavour ravioli.
TipDinner only, Wednesday to Sunday. The room is tiny and the underground imperial hall seats few, so book ahead.
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ChinesePrati
Song in Rome's Prati is Lin Sang Chu's Hong Kong dim sum house on Via Valadier, steaming xiao long bao and crystal dumplings and roasting duck over 30 hours.
OrderThe eight-piece dim sum tasting, then the Peking duck with crepes if there are two of you.
TipOpen daily for lunch and dinner. The dim sum set is about 29 euros; the duck is 18 euros and worth planning around.
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Contemporary ItalianOstiense
UMA in Rome's Ostiense is the 2024 tasting-menu room of chefs Matteo Taccini and Luigi Senese, built on charcoal, fermentation and single-ingredient plates.
OrderThe nine-course Unico Zar at 85 euros; the seven-course vegetarian menu is 60 euros.
TipDinner only, closed Tuesday; the online booking takes tables from 20:00. The room is small and the menus are set.