Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Florence actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Florence actually eats.
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
Tip: Cash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce.
Signature: Assaggio di primi, Bistecca al mirtillo, Filetto al pepe verde
Order: The assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's San Lorenzo runs the long Tuscan carte from a square-side terrace on Piazza del Mercato Centrale, with the full Florentine.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: The Tuscan tasting tray, bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00-23:00. The terrace fills fastest in summer; book three days ahead.
Cantinetta Antinori in Florence's Palazzo Antinori is the wine-bar-and-trattoria for the 26-generation Antinori wine family, with a 150-bottle list focused.
Signature: Crostini misti, Tagliata di manzo, Cantucci e Vin Santo
Order: Crostini misti, pici al ragu, the tagliata and a glass of Tignanello.
Tip: Closed Saturday and Sunday. Book the front room for the Antinori cellar tasting flight.
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi tagliere and a Chianti Classico flight from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight adds €25.
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Panna cotta
Order: The fiocchetti pera-taleggio-asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00-23:30.
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: The Friday-night bistecca tasting; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Gilda Bistrot in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio district runs the small-room modern-bistrot format opposite the market, with seasonal Tuscan plates.
Signature: Pici al ragu, Bistecca, Crostini di fegatini
Order: Pici al ragu, the crostini di fegatini and a glass of natural Chianti.
Tip: Closed Monday; book a fortnight ahead. The Sant'Ambrogio market across the square opens at 07:00.
Cucina Torcicoda in Florence's Santa Croce district is a three-room concept (osteria, pizzeria and ristorante) under one roof, with the bistecca cellar.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di Chianina, Tartare
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina from the dedicated ristorante room, or the pizza next door.
Tip: Three connected rooms with different menus; the ristorante books out 2 weeks ahead.
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Osteria del Porcellino in Florence sits a few steps from the Mercato del Porcellino loggia, with a wood-grill room and the bistecca, tagliata and Tuscan.
Signature: Tagliata di Chianina, Pappardelle al cinghiale, Ribollita
Order: Tagliata di Chianina, pappardelle al cinghiale, the ribollita in winter.
Tip: Open daily 12:00-23:00. The wood-grill room books out a week ahead for weekend dinner.
Zeb in Florence's San Niccolo quarter runs the mother-and-son counter-seating format, a 16-seat L-shaped bar where Alberto Navari plates his mother.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci, Tagliata, Pici al ragu
Order: Tortelli ricotta e spinaci to order, the daily pasta and any tagliata.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Priced at €€.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30.
Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tartare di Chianina, Tagliata
Order: The 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.
Tip: Book a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday.
Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. Kitchen leans florentine, tuscan.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pici cacio e pepe, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Dinner only.
Trattoria da Rocco in Florence sits inside the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio under the loggia, a market-canteen format with a chalkboard daily carte and lunch.
Signature: Pasta al pomodoro, Ribollita, Polpette al sugo
Order: The daily pasta, ribollita and a quartino of house red from the bar.
Tip: Lunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only; come at 12:30 to beat the stall-keepers' second rush.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars.
Signature: Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls.
Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00-19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.