Florentine, Tuscan€€€santa-maria-novella
Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. The bistecca is dry-aged 40 days and the pici come from the in-house lab.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pici cacio e pepe, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Dinner only.
Florentine market trattoria€sant-ambrogio
Trattoria da Rocco in Florence sits inside the Mercato Sant'Ambrogio under the loggia, a market-canteen format with a chalkboard daily carte and lunch for the stall-keepers at €12 per person.
Signature: Pasta al pomodoro, Ribollita, Polpette al sugo
Order: The daily pasta, ribollita and a quartino of house red from the bar.
Tip: Lunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:00. Cash only; come at 12:30 to beat the stall-keepers' second rush.
Florentine trattoria€oltrarno
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno just off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina povera at €10 a primo.
Signature: Ribollita, Pappa al pomodoro, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Tuscan small-producer market€oltrarno
Fierucola di Santo Spirito in Florence is the monthly Tuscan-small-producer market on Piazza Santo Spirito, every third Sunday since 1984, with 70 stalls and a focus on contadini, cheese-makers and bakers.
Signature: Tuscan small-producer cheese, Mountain honey, Organic schiacciata
Order: Pecorino di Pienza from a contadino, mountain honey, organic Tuscan olive oil.
Tip: Third Sunday only, 09:00 to 19:00. The piazza fills out from 10:00; Tuscan producers cluster on the south side.
Florentine trattoria€€santa-maria-novella
Trattoria Marione in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter runs the unfussy lunchtime carte locals queue for, with the four pillars of Florentine cucina povera and a chalkboard daily menu.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro and the bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto.
Tip: Cash and card; queue from 12:30. Closed Sunday; lunch and dinner both seat at 12:30 and 19:30.
Florentine, modern€€santa-croce
Acqua al 2 in Florence's Santa Croce district has run the signature assaggio di primi (five-pasta sampler) since 1978, and the steak with blueberry sauce, served until midnight every night.
Signature: Assaggio di primi, Bistecca al mirtillo, Filetto al pepe verde
Order: The assaggio di primi, bistecca al mirtillo, and any chocolate dessert from the sampler.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead. The 19:30 and 22:00 seatings; lunch closed.