Eat well in Florence for under €15 a plate: the locals'-budget edition.
Eat well in Florence for under €15 a plate: the places locals on a budget actually use.
All'Antico Vinaio in Florence's Via dei Neri is the schiacciata-counter chain with four shops on the same street, with the 30cm stuffed flatbread for €8 across the carte, the queue running daily from 12:00.
Try: Schiacciata sandwich
Order: La Favolosa schiacciata (porchetta, pecorino, artichoke cream).
Tip: Four shops on Via dei Neri; the 65r is the original. Eat on the steps of Santa Croce.
Da Nerbone in Florence's Mercato Centrale ground floor pours the lampredotto panino for €5.50 since 1872, bread dipped in the cooking broth, with tripe stuffed in and salsa verde and chilli oil from the bottles.
Try: Lampredotto panino
Order: Panino al lampredotto bagnato with salsa verde and salsa piccante.
Tip: Cash only; closed Sunday. Queue from 11:30. The plate of bollito-and-broth runs €8.
I Due Fratellini in Florence's Via dei Cimatori has run the mini-panino counter since 1875, a hole-in-the-wall format with 28 panini varieties at €4 each, and a glass of house Chianti for €4.
Try: Mini panini
Order: Wild-boar salami panino, the soppressata-and-pecorino, a glass of house Chianti.
Tip: Cash only; standing on the kerb. Closed Sunday. Shelves outside hold your wine glass.
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo has run the working-class lunch counter since 1953 next to Mercato Centrale, with a daily pasta carte at €8 a primo and a glass of house red for €3.
Try: Lunch trattoria pasta and meat
Order: Ribollita, pappardelle al cinghiale, a glass of house Chianti for €3.
Tip: Queue from 12:00; lunch-only Mon-Sat. Cash only. Closed all of August.
Trattoria da Rocco in Florence's Mercato Sant'Ambrogio loggia runs the market-canteen lunch format, with a chalkboard daily two-course menu at €12 and a quartino of house red for €3.
Try: Market lunch menu
Order: The daily pasta, ribollita in winter, a quartino of house red.
Tip: Lunch only Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:00. Cash only. Arrive at 12:30 to beat the second rush.
Trippaio del Porcellino in Florence is the lampredotto cart at the Mercato Nuovo loggia next to the Porcellino bronze boar, with panini for €5.50, trippa-and-fagioli plate for €7 and a glass of red for €3.
Try: Lampredotto cart panino
Order: Lampredotto panino bagnato, trippa-and-fagioli plate, a glass of house red.
Tip: Open daily 09:00 to 19:00. Cash only; standing room around the cart.
Casa del Vino in Florence's San Lorenzo has been the 1898 wine bar behind Mercato Centrale, with panini at €5 a piece, a 200-strong by-the-glass list at €3 per glass and a standing counter format.
Try: Wine-bar panini
Order: Panino with finocchiona, lardo crostino, a glass of Chianti Classico.
Tip: Closed Sunday; standing only. €3 glasses; €5 panini. The shelf outside the door holds your glass.
Trattoria La Casalinga in Florence's Oltrarno off Piazza Santo Spirito has been the family-run home-cooking room since 1963, with the four pillars of cucina povera at €10 a primo and the secondi at €12.
Try: Florentine cucina povera lunch
Order: Ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Mercato Centrale Firenze's first-floor food hall houses 18 artisan counters under one roof, from pasta to pizza, lampredotto and bistecca, with most plates between €8 and €15 and an espresso for €1.20.
Try: Food-hall pasta, lampredotto, pizza
Order: Lampredotto from Lorenzo Nigro's counter, the daily fresh pasta from il Tartufo, an espresso.
Tip: Open daily until midnight. Counter format; €15 lunch with a glass of wine.
Forno Pugi in Florence has been the neighbourhood forno since 1925, with three shops baking pizza al taglio, schiacciata, focaccia and the Florentine pastries daily, with portions at €4 to €8 each.
Try: Schiacciata and pizza al taglio
Order: Pizza al taglio (the chocolate-cream schiacciata fiorentina in Carnevale), focaccia stuffed.
Tip: Counter only; cash and card. Viale De Amicis original is the largest; smaller shops on Via San Gallo.
Peak food season in Florence is year-round.
Local dining hours: lunch around 12:30, dinner from 19:30.
service is typically included; small extra is welcome but not expected.
Ask the next local you meet what they would order. Florence rewards trust.