The places in Florence the guidebooks miss.
The places in Florence the guidebooks miss. locals-only counters, after-hours rooms and the spots tourists walk past.
Trattoria Cammillo is locals send friends here for the crepes alla fiorentina and the masiero family's 1945 white-tablecloth grammar on borgo san jacopo.
Why locals love it: Locals send friends here for the crepes alla fiorentina and the Masiero family's 1945 white-tablecloth grammar on Borgo San Jacopo.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Trattoria da Burde in Florence: italian room. Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca.
Why locals love it: Bus 35 to a 1901 trattoria the working quarter still treats as its own; Friday-night bistecca dinner is the seating locals book three weeks ahead.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday.
Zeb in Florence: A 16-seat mother-and-son counter in San Niccolo where Alberto Navari plates Giuseppina's tortelli to order; no booking, just queue.
Why locals love it: A 16-seat mother-and-son counter in San Niccolo where Alberto Navari plates Giuseppina's tortelli to order; no booking, just queue.
Tip: Closed Wednesday and Sunday dinner. Counter-only; first-come, no bookings.
Trattoria da Rocco in Florence: Market-canteen lunch inside Sant'Ambrogio for €12, the same plate the stall-keepers eat from a chalkboard daily.
Why locals love it: Market-canteen lunch inside Sant'Ambrogio for €12, the same plate the stall-keepers eat from a chalkboard daily.
Tip: Lunch only, Mon-Sat 12:00-15:00. Cash only. The chalkboard menu changes daily.
I Due Fratellini in Florence: A hole-in-the-wall mini-panino counter from 1875 with 28 varieties at €4 and a shelf outside to hold your wine glass.
Why locals love it: A hole-in-the-wall mini-panino counter from 1875 with 28 varieties at €4 and a shelf outside to hold your wine glass.
Tip: Cash only; standing on the kerb. Closed Sunday. €4 panini, €4 wine.
Trattoria La Casalinga off Piazza Santo Spirito is the 1963 family cucina povera room with ribollita and trippa for 10 euros, no concession to the centre.
Why locals love it: Family-run cucina povera since 1963 just off Piazza Santo Spirito; ribollita and trippa for €10 a course, no concession to the centre's tourist circuit.
Tip: Closed Sunday; cash only. Lunch is calmer; dinner books up a week ahead.
Le Volpi e l'Uva in Florence: a 12-seat wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio with the city's best small-grower Tuscan list and a counter of cheeses.
Why locals love it: A 12-seat wine bar tucked behind Ponte Vecchio with the city's best small-grower Tuscan list, the crostino board locals queue for since 1999.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The 12-seat bar has no bookings; arrive at 17:30 for aperitivo seating.
Casa del Vino is a wine bar room in San Lorenzo. Closed Sunday; standing only. €3 glasses, €5 panini. The shelf outside the door holds your glass.
Why locals love it: An 1898 standing wine bar behind Mercato Centrale with €5 panini and €3 wine, frequented by stall-keepers and locals who know the shelf-on-the-street trick.
Tip: Closed Sunday; standing only. €3 glasses, €5 panini. The shelf outside the door holds your glass.