Florentine, Tuscan€€sant-ambrogio
Cibreo Trattoria in Florence's Sant'Ambrogio quarter is Fabio Picchi's no-pasta trattoria, the casual side of the Cibreo group. The polpettine and the pappa al pomodoro run the menu since 1989.
Signature: Trippa alla fiorentina, Pappa al pomodoro, Polpettine di pollo
Order: Polpettine di pollo, pappa al pomodoro and the trippa alla fiorentina.
Tip: No reservations and no pasta on the menu. Queue from 19:45 for the 20:00 first seating; lunch is the calmer service.
Florentine trattoria€€santa-maria-novella
Trattoria Sostanza in Florence's Santa Maria Novella quarter has cooked the same bistecca and butter chicken on a coal grill since 1869. Two seatings, one menu, six communal tables.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pollo al burro, Tortino di carciofi
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) and the pollo al burro butter chicken.
Tip: Cash only; book three weeks ahead by phone. Two seatings at 19:30 and 21:30, no a la carte stragglers.
Florentine trattoria€€san-lorenzo
Trattoria Mario in Florence's San Lorenzo quarter has been the working lunch room next to Mercato Centrale since 1953. Lunch only, no bookings, communal tables, cash only.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Pappardelle al cinghiale
Order: Ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina by the etto, pappardelle al cinghiale in season.
Tip: Queue from 12:00 for the 12:30 opening. Closed Sunday and the whole of August. Cash only.
Modern Tuscan€€€oltrarno
Il Santo Bevitore in Florence's Oltrarno quarter is Marco Bechi's modern Tuscan dining room, with a 600-bottle natural-wine cellar and a daily-changing market carte since 2002.
Signature: Crudo di manzo, Pici al ragu di anatra, Coniglio in porchetta
Order: The crudo di manzo, pici al ragu d'anatra and the coniglio in porchetta with seasonal contorni.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for the back garden in summer. The walk-in wine-bar room Il Santino next door is the no-booking annex.
Modern Tuscan fine dining€€€€centro-storico
Marco Stabile's Ora d'Aria in Florence's Centro Storico holds a Michelin star for a modern Tuscan kitchen that reads pappa al pomodoro and bistecca through technique-driven plating since 2008.
Signature: Risotto al pomodoro, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The signature pappa al pomodoro risotto and the seasonal pigeon course.
Tip: Lunch tasting €60 vs €120 dinner. Ask for the chef's-counter seats when you book.
Modern Italian€€€€centro-storico
Locale Firenze in Florence's Centro Storico sits inside the 13th-century Palazzo delle Seggiole, the Concettini family's Michelin-starred kitchen with a bar and tasting room since 2018.
Signature: Tortelli di rabarbaro, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The tortelli di rabarbaro signature pasta and the pigeon course from the tasting carte.
Tip: The cocktail room downstairs is the cheaper entry point; pre-dinner aperitivo from 18:30.
Florentine trattoria€€oltrarno
I Quattro Leoni in Florence's Oltrarno is the Piazza della Passera trattoria with a summer terrace and the signature fiocchetti dumplings (pear, taleggio, asparagus) on the menu since 1957.
Signature: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliata di manzo
Order: Fiocchetti pera, taleggio e asparagi, bistecca alla fiorentina, panna cotta.
Tip: Book a terrace table three weeks ahead for summer. Open daily 12:00 to 23:30; lunch is the calmer seating.
Modern Tuscan€€€san-frediano
Simone Cipriani's Essenziale in Florence's San Frediano runs the open-kitchen tasting concept inside a former leather warehouse, with a lampredotto course that reframes the street classic.
Signature: Tasting menu, Lampredotto reinterpreted, Game
Order: The five-course tasting and the lampredotto reinterpreted dish if it is on the carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; tasting menus only at dinner. Book three weeks ahead.
Modern Italian, all-day€€€san-lorenzo
La Menagere in Florence's San Lorenzo is the all-day concept in a 19th-century housewares shop, with breakfast, brunch, lunch, aperitivo and dinner under one roof since 2015.
Signature: Brunch, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Aperitivo plate
Order: The weekend brunch, tagliatelle al tartufo and the aperitivo plate at 18:30.
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to midnight. The flower-shop entrance is a draw; book the back dining room for dinner.
Florentine, Tuscan€€€santa-maria-novella
Giovanni Latini's Osteria di Giovanni in Florence's Santa Maria Novella sits opposite the family-original Latini room. The bistecca is dry-aged 40 days and the pici come from the in-house lab.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Pici cacio e pepe, Pappa al pomodoro
Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina, pici cacio e pepe and Giovanni's pappa al pomodoro.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; the front room is the one to ask for. Open daily for dinner only.
Florentine trattoria, bistecca€€€santa-maria-novella
Buca Lapi in Florence's Santa Maria Novella has cooked the bistecca alla fiorentina in the Palazzo Antinori cellar since 1880, a candlelit basement of long communal tables and dry-aged Chianina.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tagliatelle al tartufo, Crostini di fegatini
Order: The bistecca alla fiorentina (1.2kg for two) cooked on the wood grill, and the tartufo pasta in season.
Tip: Cash and card; book three weeks ahead. The cellar is hot in summer; ask for the front room.
Florentine, Tuscan fine dining€€€€sant-ambrogio
Ristorante Cibreo in Florence is the formal flagship of Fabio Picchi's empire, with the yellow-pepper passato, cresta di gallo cockscomb and the eponymous cibreo offal stew since 1979.
Signature: Passato di peperoni gialli, Cresta di gallo, Cibreo (offal stew)
Order: Passato di peperoni gialli, the cibreo offal stew and any cockscomb course.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; lunch is one fixed tasting. The trattoria around the corner is the easier-priced entry.
Florentine trattoria€€€oltrarno
Trattoria Cammillo in Florence's Oltrarno has been the Masiero family's white-tablecloth trattoria on Borgo San Jacopo since 1945, with crepes alla fiorentina and the wood-grilled bistecca.
Signature: Crepes alla fiorentina, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Risotto al curry
Order: Crepes alla fiorentina (spinach and bechamel), bistecca alla fiorentina, the curry risotto.
Tip: Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; book three weeks ahead. Cash only, dinner only.
Florentine, bistecca-led€€€centro-storico
Regina Bistecca in Florence's Centro Storico is the dedicated bistecca house behind the Duomo, with Chianina dry-aged in glass cabinets and a wood-fired grill in full view of the dining room.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Tartare di Chianina, Tagliata
Order: The 1kg bistecca alla fiorentina for two and the Chianina tartare to start.
Tip: Book a window seat over Via Ricasoli a fortnight ahead. Closed Tuesday; lunch is the calmer service.
Modern Italian, fine dining€€€€centro-storico
Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura in Florence's Piazza della Signoria is Karime Lopez's Michelin-starred kitchen above the Gucci Garden, with Bottura's Emilia Burger and modern-Italian tasting carte.
Signature: Emilia Burger, Tortellini al Parmigiano, Tasting menu
Order: The Emilia Burger (mortadella-and-zampone), the tortellini al Parmigiano and the seasonal tasting menu.
Tip: Book six weeks ahead. The €150 lunch tasting is the entry; the €220 dinner the full set.
Modern Tuscan fine dining€€€€santa-maria-novella
Saporium in Florence is Ariel Hagen's Michelin-starred farm-to-table room sourced from the Borgo Santo Pietro estate, a tasting carte built off the kitchen garden and herd 90 minutes south.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto, Game
Order: The 8-course tasting menu; the wine pairing tilts toward the Borgo Santo Pietro estate wines.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. The estate-wine pairing adds €110; book the chef's counter for kitchen view.
Modern Italian fine dining€€€€centro-storico
Santa Elisabetta in Florence's Hotel Brunelleschi holds two Michelin stars under Rocco De Santis, a 24-seat dining room inside a 6th-century Byzantine tower above the centro storico rooftops.
Signature: Pigeon and Yuzu, Mediterranean Risotto, Tasting menu
Order: The pigeon and yuzu signature and the Mediterranean risotto from the tasting carte.
Tip: Book six weeks ahead. The 10-course tasting is €260; €170 for the shorter 7-course set.
Modern Tuscan€€€san-frediano
io Osteria Personale in Florence's San Frediano is Nicolo Baretti's modern-Tuscan tasting room, with the choose-your-own four-or-five course format and a 200-strong natural-wine cellar since 2010.
Signature: Tortelli ricotta e funghi, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The choose-your-own four-course tasting and any tortelli or pigeon course on the carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; dinner only. Build the tasting around the maitre's wine suggestions.
Florentine trattoria€€campo-di-marte
Trattoria da Burde in Florence's western edge has been the Gori family's working-quarter osteria since 1901, with the Friday-night dinner the only evening service and a daily lunch carte for locals.
Signature: Ribollita, Bistecca alla fiorentina, Trippa alla fiorentina
Order: The Friday-night bistecca tasting if you can book; otherwise ribollita and trippa alla fiorentina at lunch.
Tip: Lunch Mon-Sat; dinner Friday only. Book three weeks ahead for Friday; bus 35 from Santa Maria Novella.
Florentine trattoria€€san-lorenzo
Trattoria Za Za in Florence's Mercato Centrale square has run the family trattoria since 1977, with a covered Piazza del Mercato terrace and the full Florentine carte from ribollita to bistecca.
Signature: Bistecca alla fiorentina, Ribollita, Tagliatelle al cinghiale
Order: The full Tuscan tasting tray, then bistecca alla fiorentina and a tagliatelle al cinghiale.
Tip: Open daily 11:00 to 23:00. Book the terrace three days ahead for summer; lunch is the easier service.
Florentine, wine-led€€centro-storico
Coquinarius in Florence behind the Duomo has run as a wine-bar-and-trattoria hybrid since 1999, with a long Tuscan carte and a 200-bottle list focused on Chianti Classico and Brunello producers.
Signature: Pici cacio e pepe, Tagliere di salumi, Carpaccio di manzo
Order: Pici cacio e pepe, the salumi platter and a glass of Chianti Classico from the by-the-glass list.
Tip: Open daily; book a fortnight ahead for the back vaulted room. The Brunello flight is worth the €25 add.
Modern Tuscan fine dining€€€€oltrarno
Borgo San Jacopo in Florence's Oltrarno is Claudio Mengoni's Michelin-starred kitchen inside Hotel Lungarno, with a 20-seat Arno-side terrace and a modern Tuscan tasting menu since 1995.
Signature: Risotto, Pigeon, Tasting menu
Order: The 7-course tasting and any seasonal pigeon course; the Arno-side terrace seats six only.
Tip: Closed Tuesday. The terrace books out 6 weeks ahead for summer; €150 set or €220 with wine.