€€€€Street food
Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked the bone-in vaca vieja txuleta since 1980, served rare on a sizzling plate so the diner.
OrderBone-in vaca vieja txuleta on coals
TipSign the list when you arrive; the txuleta is portioned per person. Tortilla finishes by 14:30.
€€€€Bakery
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian is the birthplace of the burnt Basque cheesecake (tarta de queso La Vina), invented by Santiago Rivera in 1990.
TipOrder a wedge at the counter and a glass of Pedro Ximenez. Whole cakes for takeaway need 24 hours notice.
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La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990 when Santiago Rivera baked a crustless cheesecake very hot until the top.
OrderBurnt Basque cheesecake
TipWedge at the counter for 4 euros; full cake takeaways need 24 hours notice.
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La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian braises beef cheek in red wine until it falls apart, the canonical modern pintxo of the Old.
OrderBeef cheek braised in red wine
TipRead the blackboard. Order with a half-pint of Rioja Cash typically expected.
€€€€Bakery
Pasteleria Otaegui's original branch on Narrika in San Sebastian's Old Town has run a counter of Basque pastries since 1886, the pantxineta cream-puff.
TipThe pantxineta is the household name; eat the wedge or take a tin home. Several branches across the city.
€€€€Café
Sakona Coffee Roasters in San Sebastian's Gros has run a specialty coffee programme since 2015, anchoring the city's third-wave scene with a 30-cover cafe.
TipTry the seasonal filter pour or a flat white; the bean retail wall stocks Sakona's roasts to take home.
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Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town runs an autumn mushroom counter from October to December, the wild setas sauteed with garlic and finished.
OrderWild mushrooms with egg yolk
TipOctober to December peak season; the spider crab pintxo is the year-round second order.
€€€€Basque
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a single mushroom-and-egg-yolk pintxo from the counter under 7 euros, the autumn budget bite.
OrderMushroom pintxo with egg yolk in autumn
TipOctober to December peak; closed Sundays and Mondays Cash is faster than card.
€€€€Café
Old Town Coffee in San Sebastian's Centro, founded by Brazilian friends, runs single-origin coffees rotated seasonally. Order the single-origin espresso.
TipThe Mercado San Martin branch is the original location; the Reyes Catolicos cafe is the newer flagship.
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Casa Valles on Reyes Catolicos in San Sebastian invented the gilda pintxo in 1946, a skewer of anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper named for the Rita.
OrderGilda pintxo (anchovy, olive, guindilla)
TipOrder two gildas at a time; the canonical version is built on cantabrico anchovies and Ibarra guindillas.
€€€€Seafood
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian sells the vinegar-cured anchovy pintxo from 3 euros, the seafood-counter budget order with a Txakoli for under 6.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera pintxo with Txakoli
TipTwo anchoas with a Txakoli for under 8 euros. Counter standing only.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro serves a wedge of the 28-egg tortilla with a cana under 7 euros, the locals' lunchtime budget plate.
OrderTortilla wedge with a cana
TipTortilla finishes by 14:30. Stand at the counter; cash and card both.
€€€€Basque
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires the brocheta de gambas to order for under 5 euros, the canonical Old Town budget bite.
OrderBrocheta de gambas with cana
TipStand only; the brochette plus a Txakoli is under 8 euros Cash is faster than card.
€€€€Basque
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian sells the burnt Basque cheesecake wedge from the counter under 5 euros, the city's most famous dessert.
OrderTarta de queso wedge
TipWedge to take away or eat standing. Closed Mondays.
€€€€Bakery
Galparsoro Okindegia on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Parte Vieja is an artisan Basque bakery with French-style baguettes, sourdough and walnut-chocolate.
TipThe morning loaves go first; the apricot tart is the surest sweet pick. Closed Sundays.
€€€€Bakery
Errotaundi on Easo in San Sebastian's Centro is an Eusko Label artisan bakery with 28 daily breads on long fermentation, the locals' loaf stop a block off.
TipSourdough goes first; ask for the country rye if the long loaves are out. The chocolate bread is the sweet pick.
€€€€Café
Koh Tao Cafe in San Sebastian's Centro, named for the Thai island where founders Ana and Ainara dreamed it up, is one of the original third-wave coffee bars.
TipPull up at the counter for the flat white; homemade cakes and a small brunch carte sit on the side.
€€€€Café
Old Town Coffee inside Mercado San Martin in San Sebastian's Centro is the market-stall outpost of the city's specialty coffee pioneer, with a stand-up.
TipPair a filter coffee with a Geltoki croissant from the bakery stall across the aisle. Closed Sundays.
€€€€Café
Pasteleria Otaegui's original branch on Narrika in San Sebastian's Old Town has run a counter of Basque pastries and morning coffee since 1886.
TipTartas de queso to take away; eat in for a coffee and a slice of the day's bake.
€€€€Street food
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies by a guarded family recipe since 1972, served on toasted baguette with a pepper-onion.
OrderCured anchovy with pepper-onion topping
TipTwo anchoas a la jardinera; the spider crab cream topping is the rarer order.
€€€€Street food
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a risotto of Idiazabal sheep cheese with puntalette pasta, the modern pintxo signature of the Old.
OrderIdiazabal cheese risotto with puntalette pasta
TipRead the blackboard; the Basatxerri pork ribs are the second-tier order.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Bar Tamboril on Arrandegi next to Plaza de la Constitucion in San Sebastian's Old Town turns out garlic-mushroom pintxos for under 4 euros, the budget hot.
OrderMushrooms in olive oil pintxo
TipCounter standing only; closed Tuesdays.
€€€€SeafoodParte Vieja
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked one thing since 1967: mussels by the dozen, in five sauces, served standing at the bar.
OrderA dozen mussels a la vinagreta and a dozen al vapor; bravas to share; cana of Estrella.
TipStanding only, no tables. Cash-friendly. Closed Wednesdays Booking recommended for weekends.
€€€€Bakery
Pasteleria Geltoki on Easo in San Sebastian's Amara is a working Basque bakery-cafe with a long counter of sourdough, croissants and small viennoiserie.
TipThe bread queue is long by 09:00. Get a coffee with a Basque pastry at the back counter.
€€€€Café
Kafe Botanika next to the Urumea river in San Sebastian's Centro runs an international cafe carte with vegan and gluten-free options, plus one.
TipThe terrace has been named among Spain's most beautiful; book by phone for weekend brunch.
€€€€Street food
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro turns out a 28-egg tortilla de patatas with caramelised onions and confit potatoes, considered by locals.
Order28-egg tortilla de patatas
TipTortilla finishes most days by 14:30; the gilda is the small-bite pairing.
€€€€Basque
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked mussels by the dozen since 1967, served standing at the bar with bravas and a cana.
OrderMussels by the dozen with patatas bravas
TipStanding only. Closed Wednesdays. Cash and card both Cash is faster than card.
€€€€Basque
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires foie a la plancha to order for under 5 euros, the late-evening budget pintxo of the working.
OrderFoie a la plancha pintxo
TipCounter standing only; the foie plus Txakoli is under 8 euros.
€€€€Café
La Madame on Calle San Bartolome near La Concha in San Sebastian's Centro is the city's pioneer brunch room, opened in 2011 by owners returning from New York.
TipWeekend brunch only, Saturday and Sunday 12:00-13:30. Book ahead through their site.
€€€€Café
Pasteleria Geltoki on Easo in San Sebastian's Amara is a working Basque bakery-cafe with a counter of pastries, sit-down coffee service and the locals'.
TipOpen from 07:30 weekdays; the bread queue is long by 09:00. Closed Sundays.
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Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires the brocheta de gambas to order, a skewer of griddled prawns on bread with a red pepper.
OrderGriddled prawn skewer on bread
TipStand only; the brochette comes out hot, eat at the counter.
€€€€Basque
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town since 1948 turns out the bacalao al pil pil pintxo for under 4 euros, the canonical budget bite.
OrderBacalao al pil pil pintxo with a glass of Txakoli
TipTerrace fills first; the pintxo plus Txakoli is under 6 euros.
€€€€Basque
Casa Tiburcio on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town, rebranded Fermin Calbeton in 2022, runs a working-day menu del dia at 13 to 15 euros.
OrderWorking-day menu del dia
TipMenu del dia served 13:00-15:30 weekdays.
€€€€Bakery
Pasteleria Oiartzun on Ijentea at the entry to San Sebastian's Parte Vieja, opposite the city hall, is a long-running Basque cake shop with the chocolate-bar.
TipWhole pantxinetas to take away need a day's notice; the chocolate croissant is the counter pick.
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Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is the breakfast institution, with retro tile floors, a counter of morning tortilla and a back room.
TipMornings are the best time; the plaza-side terrace is the calmer seat. Closed Sunday afternoons.
€€€€Café
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros runs a daytime cafe-and-counter alongside the Aduriz-helmed Basque-Latin American kitchen, with cafe de olla.
TipMorning hours are quieter; the bar opens at 12:00 and serves coffee with the lunch menu.
€€€€Street food
Bar Tamboril on Arrandegi next to Plaza de la Constitucion in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a single hot pintxo of garlic-and-parsley mushrooms in olive.
OrderMushrooms in olive oil and parsley
TipOne champinon at the counter; the gamba a la gabardina is the second-order pintxo here.
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Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires foie a la plancha to order, a slab of seared duck liver on toasted bread with a touch of apple.
OrderSeared foie gras on bread
TipHot off the plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab is the second pintxo.
€€€€CafeCentro
Bideluze on Plaza Gipuzkoa in San Sebastian's Centro is one of the city's breakfast institutions, retro-tiled floors, sit-down service and a counter.
OrderThe morning tortilla and cafe con leche; a pintxo of jamon at midday.
TipBreakfast service from 08:00; the plaza terrace is the calmer morning seat.
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Akerbeltz on Calle Mari in San Sebastian's Old Town is a cosy cafe-and-craft-beer room with a Bay-of-Biscay terrace overlooking the harbour.
TipTerrace tables go first; the back room is calm. Coffee in the morning, craft beer in the afternoon.