Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies by a guarded family recipe since 1972, served on toasted baguette with a pepper-onion jardinera topping.
Tip: Two anchoas a la jardinera; the spider crab cream topping is the rarer order.
Address: Pescaderia Kalea 5, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked one thing since 1967: mussels by the dozen, in vinaigrette, tomato, wine, garlic and steamed, served standing at the bar.
Try: Mussels by the dozen, five sauces
Tip: Standing only. A dozen mussels and patatas bravas with a cana is the canonical order.
Bar Tamboril on Arrandegi next to Plaza de la Constitucion in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a single hot pintxo of garlic-and-parsley mushrooms in olive oil, the working pintxo of the family.
Try: Mushrooms in olive oil and parsley
Tip: One champinon at the counter; the gamba a la gabardina is the second-order pintxo here.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires foie a la plancha to order, a slab of seared duck liver on toasted bread with a touch of apple compote.
Try: Seared foie gras on bread
Tip: Hot off the plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab is the second pintxo.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian braises beef cheek in red wine until it falls apart, the canonical modern pintxo of the Old Town since 1999.
Try: Beef cheek braised in red wine
Tip: Read the blackboard. Order with a half-pint of Rioja.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town runs an autumn mushroom counter from October to December, the wild setas sauteed with garlic and finished with a raw egg yolk.
Try: Wild mushrooms with egg yolk
Tip: October to December peak season; the spider crab pintxo is the year-round second order.
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a risotto of Idiazabal sheep cheese with puntalette pasta, the modern pintxo signature of the Old Town's tightest blackboard kitchen.
Try: Idiazabal cheese risotto with puntalette pasta
Tip: Read the blackboard; the Basatxerri pork ribs are the second-tier order.
