La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990 when Santiago Rivera baked a crustless cheesecake very hot until the top caramelised, the city's most copied dessert.
Tip: Wedge at the counter for 4 euros; full cake takeaways need 24 hours notice.
Address: Calle 31 de Agosto 3, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires the brocheta de gambas to order, a skewer of griddled prawns on bread with a red pepper vinaigrette and a pinch of salt.
Try: Griddled prawn skewer on bread
Tip: Stand only; the brochette comes out hot, eat at the counter.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies by a guarded family recipe since 1972, served on toasted baguette with a pepper-onion jardinera topping.
Try: Cured anchovy with pepper-onion topping
Tip: Two anchoas a la jardinera; the spider crab cream topping is the rarer order.
La Mejillonera on Calle del Puerto in San Sebastian has cooked one thing since 1967: mussels by the dozen, in vinaigrette, tomato, wine, garlic and steamed, served standing at the bar.
Try: Mussels by the dozen, five sauces
Tip: Standing only. A dozen mussels and patatas bravas with a cana is the canonical order.
Bar Tamboril on Arrandegi next to Plaza de la Constitucion in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a single hot pintxo of garlic-and-parsley mushrooms in olive oil, the working pintxo of the family.
Try: Mushrooms in olive oil and parsley
Tip: One champinon at the counter; the gamba a la gabardina is the second-order pintxo here.
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires foie a la plancha to order, a slab of seared duck liver on toasted bread with a touch of apple compote.
Try: Seared foie gras on bread
Tip: Hot off the plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab is the second pintxo.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian braises beef cheek in red wine until it falls apart, the canonical modern pintxo of the Old Town since 1999.
Try: Beef cheek braised in red wine
Tip: Read the blackboard. Order with a half-pint of Rioja.
