Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a risotto of Idiazabal sheep cheese with puntalette pasta, the modern pintxo signature of the Old Town's tightest blackboard kitchen.
Tip: Read the blackboard; the Basatxerri pork ribs are the second-tier order.
Address: Fermin Calbeton Kalea 12, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro turns out a 28-egg tortilla de patatas with caramelised onions and confit potatoes, considered by locals the best wedge in the city.
Try: 28-egg tortilla de patatas
Tip: Tortilla finishes most days by 14:30; the gilda is the small-bite pairing.
Casa Valles on Reyes Catolicos in San Sebastian invented the gilda pintxo in 1946, a skewer of anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper named for the Rita Hayworth film for its 'spicy and salty' nature.
Try: Gilda pintxo (anchovy, olive, guindilla)
Tip: Order two gildas at a time; the canonical version is built on cantabrico anchovies and Ibarra guindillas.
Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked the bone-in vaca vieja txuleta since 1980, served rare on a sizzling plate so the diner finishes the meat to taste.
Try: Bone-in vaca vieja txuleta on coals
Tip: Sign the list when you arrive; the txuleta is portioned per person. Tortilla finishes by 14:30.
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990 when Santiago Rivera baked a crustless cheesecake very hot until the top caramelised, the city's most copied dessert.
Try: Burnt Basque cheesecake
Tip: Wedge at the counter for 4 euros; full cake takeaways need 24 hours notice.
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires the brocheta de gambas to order, a skewer of griddled prawns on bread with a red pepper vinaigrette and a pinch of salt.
Try: Griddled prawn skewer on bread
Tip: Stand only; the brochette comes out hot, eat at the counter.
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies by a guarded family recipe since 1972, served on toasted baguette with a pepper-onion jardinera topping.
Try: Cured anchovy with pepper-onion topping
Tip: Two anchoas a la jardinera; the spider crab cream topping is the rarer order.
