Bar Tamboril on Arrandegi next to Plaza de la Constitucion in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a single hot pintxo of garlic-and-parsley mushrooms in olive oil, the working pintxo of the family.
Tip: One champinon at the counter; the gamba a la gabardina is the second-order pintxo here.
Address: Arrandegi Kalea 2, 20003 Donostia-San Sebastian, San Sebastián
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town fires foie a la plancha to order, a slab of seared duck liver on toasted bread with a touch of apple compote.
Try: Seared foie gras on bread
Tip: Hot off the plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab is the second pintxo.
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian braises beef cheek in red wine until it falls apart, the canonical modern pintxo of the Old Town since 1999.
Try: Beef cheek braised in red wine
Tip: Read the blackboard. Order with a half-pint of Rioja.
Ganbara on San Jeronimo in San Sebastian's Old Town runs an autumn mushroom counter from October to December, the wild setas sauteed with garlic and finished with a raw egg yolk.
Try: Wild mushrooms with egg yolk
Tip: October to December peak season; the spider crab pintxo is the year-round second order.
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a risotto of Idiazabal sheep cheese with puntalette pasta, the modern pintxo signature of the Old Town's tightest blackboard kitchen.
Try: Idiazabal cheese risotto with puntalette pasta
Tip: Read the blackboard; the Basatxerri pork ribs are the second-tier order.
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro turns out a 28-egg tortilla de patatas with caramelised onions and confit potatoes, considered by locals the best wedge in the city.
Try: 28-egg tortilla de patatas
Tip: Tortilla finishes most days by 14:30; the gilda is the small-bite pairing.
Casa Valles on Reyes Catolicos in San Sebastian invented the gilda pintxo in 1946, a skewer of anchovy, olive and guindilla pepper named for the Rita Hayworth film for its 'spicy and salty' nature.
Try: Gilda pintxo (anchovy, olive, guindilla)
Tip: Order two gildas at a time; the canonical version is built on cantabrico anchovies and Ibarra guindillas.
