€€€€Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian opened in 1999 from chefs trained at Lasarte and El Bulli, cooking made-to-order modern.
OrderThe carrillera de ternera braised in red wine; the foie a la plancha with apple compote.
TipNo display counter; read the blackboard. Queue early before 13:00 or after 21:00, the bar gets four deep at peak.
€€€€Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
La Cuchara de San Telmo on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian, open since 1999 by El Bulli and Lasarte-trained chefs, cooks made-to-order modern pintxos.
OrderThe carrillera de ternera in red wine; foie a la plancha with apple compote; pulpo a la brasa.
TipQueue before 13:00 or after 21:00; the bar is four-deep at peak. No reservations.
€€€€Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos with bold Basque flavours, no counter display, just a tight list of plates.
OrderThe Idiazabal risotto with puntalette pasta; the Basatxerri pork ribs with ras el hanout.
TipClosed Sundays. Cash and card both. Stand outside if the bar is full; food comes out fast.
€€€€Basque GrillParte Vieja
Bar Nestor on Pescaderia in San Sebastian's Old Town has cooked exactly four things since 1981: txuleta of old-cow ribeye, tomato salad, pimientos de Padron.
OrderThe txuleta on the chargrill, the tomato salad with sea salt.
TipTortilla is two per day, twelve to seventeen slices; show up an hour before service. Txuleta needs a list-name on arrival.
€€€€BasqueParte Vieja
La Vina on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian invented the burnt Basque cheesecake in 1990, when Santiago Rivera blasted a crustless cheesecake.
OrderThe tarta de queso, a wedge from the counter, plus a glass of Pedro Ximenez or Txakoli to cut.
TipClosed Mondays. Get the cheesecake at the counter; the dining room behind serves a sit-down lunch with the same wedge for dessert.
€€€€Modern Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Borda Berri on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks hot made-to-order pintxos off a tight blackboard menu, no counter display, the Idiazabal-cheese risotto.
OrderThe risotto de Idiazabal con puntalette; the carrillera al vino tinto; the Basatxerri pork ribs.
TipWalk in only, closed Sundays. Stand outside if the bar is full; orders come out fast.
€€€€Cafe
Sakona Coffee Roasters runs a specialty coffee programme since 2015, the city's third-wave pioneer with a public cafe in Gros and a roastery in Irun.
TipOrder the seasonal filter at the bar; the bean retail wall stocks Sakona's roasts to take home.
€€€€Basque PintxosCentro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a 28-egg, deep-caramelised tortilla and a gilda built on two anchovies.
OrderA wedge of the tortilla, the double-anchovy gilda; espresso at the counter to finish.
TipTortilla is finished by 14:30 most days; arrive before then. Cash-friendly; the counter is small and stand-only.
€€€€Basque Anchovy BarParte Vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera (with pepper and onion) and anchoa with crema de centollo. Two each, then move.
TipWalk in only, stand at the bar. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; pick three and shout your order to the barman.
€€€€Basque Anchovy BarParte Vieja
Bar Txepetxa on Pescaderia in San Sebastian has cured white anchovies since 1972 by a guarded family recipe, served on toasted baguette with a dozen toppings.
OrderAnchoa a la jardinera; anchoa with crema de centollo. Order three and move.
TipCounter standing only. The blackboard lists 12 toppings; shout your order.
€€€€Basque PintxosCentro
Antonio Bar on Bergara in San Sebastian's Centro is the locals' tortilla room, with a deep-caramelised 28-egg tortilla and the canonical double-anchovy.
OrderA wedge of the tortilla; the double-anchovy gilda; espresso to finish.
TipTortilla finishes by 14:30 most days. Counter is small and stand-only.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Antonio Bar on Bergara Kalea in San Sebastian's Centro skips the Old Town queues and pours the city's best tortilla and a canonical gilda at the counter.
TipTortilla finishes by 14:30; arrive earlier on weekends Word-of-mouth is the only marketing.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Gandarias on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town runs one of the longest pintxo display counters in the quarter, with a back dining room.
OrderThe solomillo a la plancha on bread with sea salt and a fried Padron; the jamon iberico from the counter.
TipOpen continuously through siesta, the rare Old Town room that does not shut at 16:00. The counter is busy; the back room takes reservations.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks one perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with red pepper sauce on a slice of bread.
OrderThe brocheta de gambas (prawn skewer) cooked to order; a glass of Txakoli to pair.
TipStand-only at the counter; brochette is fired fresh, expect a 4-minute wait. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
€€€€Basque PintxosGros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, is the award-winning miniature-cuisine counter where Juan Mari Arzak is a regular.
OrderThe Txalupa with prawn-mushroom gratin; the Itxaso monkfish with seafood cream.
TipWalk in only at the counter; small street terrace. The kitchen rotates new pintxos through the year while keeping the prize-winners on the daily list.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Goiz Argi on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian cooks a single perfect prawn brochette to order, griddled with a sweet red pepper sauce on bread.
OrderThe brocheta de gambas, cooked to order; chipiron a la plancha; a glass of Txakoli.
TipStand only; brochette is fired fresh. Open 10:00-16:00 and 18:30-23:30.
€€€€Basque PintxosGros
Bar Bergara on General Artetxe in San Sebastian's Gros, since 1950, sets out one of the most decorated miniature-cuisine pintxo counters in the city.
OrderThe Txalupa gratin of prawn and mushroom; a wedge of the tortilla de anchoas; a glass of Txakoli.
TipWalk in at the counter; small street terrace fills first. Closed Wednesdays.
€€€€Cafe
Old Town Coffee Roasters in San Sebastian's Centro, founded by Brazilian friends, is the city's other specialty pillar, with seasonally rotated single-origin.
TipSit at the bar for the espresso flight; takeaway beans and brew kit at the front.
€€€€Brewery
Petritegi in Astigarraga, 7km from San Sebastian, has pressed Basque cider since 1526 across three dining rooms, with the canonical txotx menu of cod.
TipTxotx season is January to April; bottled service runs year-round. Book ahead through petritegi.com.
€€€€Brunch
Sakona Coffee Roasters in San Sebastian's Gros is the city's specialty-coffee brunch room with single-origin filter, sourdough toast and Basque pastries.
OrderFilter coffee with a Basque cake from the counter
TipMornings are calmer; the back counter has tables for laptops.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos with a stand-and-eat.
OrderThe prawn brochette and the solomillo-foie skewer; finish with a glass of Txakoli on the church-step terrace.
TipOpen until 01:00 weekdays, 02:30 weekends; the terrace fills first. No reservations, walk-in only.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town serves a classic counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with the house Txakoli.
OrderThe grilled foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab; a glass of house Txakoli.
TipWalk in only; counter standing room. Open until midnight daily, weekends from 11:00.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now run by the third generation of the Martinez.
OrderA pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus, the prawn brochette.
TipCounter is busy from 13:00 and 21:00; weekends and August are extremely crowded. No reservations.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian, opposite the Santa Maria del Coro church, runs a long bar of experimental pintxos and a church-step.
OrderThe langostino brochette; the solomillo with foie; a Txakoli on the terrace.
TipNo reservations, walk in only. The terrace is the social hour; pull up at 19:30 to beat the queue.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Sport on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian's Old Town runs a brisk pintxos counter of grilled foie, stuffed squid and braised cheek, with a Txakoli pour.
OrderThe foie a la plancha; the txipiron stuffed with spider crab.
TipCounter standing only. Open daily until midnight; weekends from 11:00.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Martinez on Calle 31 de Agosto in San Sebastian's Old Town has been a shellfish pintxo bar since 1942, now in its third generation with a long counter.
OrderAny pintxo de marisco from the counter; the seared octopus.
TipBusy from 13:00 and 21:00. No reservations. Weekends and August are extremely crowded.
€€€€Cafe
Koh Tao Cafe in San Sebastian's Centro, one of the city's earliest third-wave coffee bars, runs a small-batch brew programme alongside the cafe service.
TipThe pour-over service is what to order; the cafe is small and busy on weekend mornings.
€€€€Cafe
Sakona's stall inside Mercado San Martin in San Sebastian's Centro brings the Gros roastery into the daily market, with a stand-up bar of espresso and filter.
TipPair a filter with a bakery purchase from the next stall; the market closes Sundays.
€€€€Cafe
Old Town Coffee's market-stall outpost inside Mercado San Martin in San Sebastian's Centro is the city's specialty coffee inside the working food market.
TipPair a filter coffee with a bakery purchase from an adjacent stall. Closed Sundays.
€€€€Brewery
Mala Gissona Beer House in San Sebastian's Gros runs 12 taps of own and guest beers from the affiliated Oiartzun microbrewery, plus 150 bottles and cans.
TipIndustrial-minimalist room; the flights are the way to taste-test before committing.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Atari Gastroteka on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town keeps the pintxos counter and the Txakoli pour going past midnight, with the church-step terrace.
OrderPintxos and Txakoli on the church-step terrace
TipCounter and terrace open until 02:30 at weekends. No reservations.
€€€€Basque
Mala Gissona Beer House in San Sebastian's Gros runs 12 taps of craft beer plus 150 bottles and cans until 01:00 daily, with Asian-leaning bar snacks.
OrderCraft beer with Asian bar snacks
TipIndustrial room a 100-metre walk from Zurriola beach. Open daily.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Bodega Donostiarra in San Sebastian: spanish tapas room. Side-street Gros bar off Pena y Goni from 1928, where the locals' Indurain and mini completo.
TipThe mini completo de bonito and the Indurain are the signature plates; lunch crowd is local. Open from 09:00 daily.
€€€€Spanish tapas
Bar Tamboril in San Sebastian: Same family as Ganbara but a tighter, quieter counter on Plaza de la Constitucion that even guidebook regulars skip.
TipTwo pintxos: the champinon and the gamba a la gabardina. Closed Tuesdays.
€€€€Brunch
La Madame on Calle San Bartolome near La Concha in San Sebastian was the city's first dedicated brunch room, opened by an owner returning from New York.
OrderEggs benedict, French toast or the gilda burger
TipWeekend brunch only Saturday and Sunday 12:00-13:30. Book through the website.
€€€€Brunch
Old Town Coffee in San Sebastian's Centro runs a brunch counter of vegan and gluten-free organic bakes alongside the single-origin coffee programme.
OrderPour-over coffee with a gluten-free banana bread
TipOpen Sundays from 10:00 when most of the city's cafes stay shut.
€€€€Basque-latin AmericanGros
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and a counter.
OrderThe quesadilla de morcilla and the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour to drink.
TipThe bar is walk-in; tables need a reservation through the website. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00 onwards.
€€€€Basque PintxosParte Vieja
Bar Astelena on Calle Inigo in San Sebastian's Old Town, in business since 1960, runs a tight counter of pintxos plus a small dining room behind for sit-down.
OrderThe foie con compota de manzana; the carrillera braised in red wine.
TipSmaller crowd than the Calle 31 de Agosto rooms; lunch sit-down requires booking by phone.
€€€€Basque-latin AmericanGros
Topa Sukalderia in San Sebastian's Gros is the IXO Grupo (Andoni Luis Aduriz) Basque-Latin American room since 2017, with tacos, ceviches and pisco cocktails.
OrderThe quesadilla de morcilla; the cochinita pibil taco; the pisco sour.
TipWalk in at the bar or book a table through topasukalderia.com. The kitchen runs continuously from 13:00.
€€€€Brewery
Basqueland Izakaia in San Sebastian's Gros, a 100-metre walk from Zurriola beach, serves the brewery's freshly brewed beer alongside Asian bar snacks.
TipTap rotation is weekly; the Asian small plates are the food pairing.