Jewish deli$$upper-east-sideDaily 10:00-21:00
Pastrami Queen on Lexington serves kosher pastrami sandwiches on the Upper East Side of New York City. Modest counter, oversized sandwiches since 1956.
Signature: Pastrami on rye, Potato knish
Order: Hand-cut pastrami on rye with mustard.
Tip: Counter is tiny and seats fewer than a dozen; the takeaway line moves faster than the dine-in queue.
Romanian$$$lower-east-sideFri-Sat 17:00-22:00, Sun-Thu closed
Sammy's Roumanian reopened on Stanton Street in 2024 after the Chrystie basement closed in 2021. Romanian-Jewish steakhouse, schmaltz on every table.
Signature: Skirt steak, Chopped liver, Karnatzlach
Order: Garlic-rubbed skirt steak with seltzer-and-chocolate-syrup egg cream service.
Tip: Tables are mixed at long shared boards; book the early seating by phone (646-410-2427) if you want any chance of hearing your tablemate.
Seafood$$$midtownMon-Fri 11:30-21:30, Sat-Sun closed
The Grand Central Oyster Bar has poured oysters and clam chowder beneath the Guastavino tiles of New York City's Grand Central Terminal since 1913.
Signature: Manhattan clam chowder, Oyster pan roast, Raw oyster bar
Order: A cup of Manhattan clam chowder and a half-dozen East Coast oysters at the counter.
Tip: Sit at the counter facing the open kitchen; the pan roast is theatre when made to order.
Sichuan Chinese$$$chinatownMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-22:00
Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
Signature: Cold sesame noodles, General Tso's chicken, Peking duck
Order: Cold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
Tip: The cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.
Pizzeria$$carroll-gardensWed-Mon 17:00-23:00, Tue closed
Mark Iacono's candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria in New York City turns out a coal-fired Brooklyn pie and a calzone, cash only, BYOB, no reservations.
Signature: New York slice, Charred Brooklyn pie
Order: The plain margherita, charred-crust slice.
Tip: Walk-in only. Put your name down at 17:30, then come back at 19:30; the wait is the room's whole social fabric.
American Diner$$lower-east-sideMon-Thu 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:00 - Sun 23:00 (24h Fri-Sun)
Katz's on East Houston has cured, smoked and hand-sliced pastrami in New York City since 1888. The corner-of-the-counter sandwich is the deli's whole point.
Signature: Pastrami on rye, Matzo ball soup
Order: Hand-cut pastrami on rye, mustard, half-sour pickle.
Tip: Tip the slicer a dollar when you get your ticket; a thick fatty slice samples your way and the sandwich comes built right.