Chinese$$flushing
Nan Xiang on Prince Street in Flushing pleats soup dumplings to 18 folds in New York City. Pork, pork-and-crab, and a green truffle-pork basket on weekends.
Signature: Soup dumplings, Pork-and-crab xiao long bao
Order: Pork-and-crab xiao long bao, basket of eight.
Tip: Take the 7 train to Flushing-Main Street; the room runs 60-minute waits at lunch. No reservations; expect a buzzer.
Italian$$carroll-gardens
The two Franks have served Brooklyn-Italian on Court Street in New York City since 2004: handmade pastas, escarole salad, sausage cavatelli in a garden out back.
Signature: Cavatelli with hot sausage, Meatballs
Order: Cavatelli, hot sausage, brown butter and sage.
Tip: Sit in the garden in warm weather. The meatballs over polenta is the second pick if cavatelli has sold out.
Italian$$$west-village
Jody Williams and Rita Sodi's Grove Street West Village room serves Tuscan-leaning food in New York City. No reservations; the line outside is its own institution.
Signature: Insalata verde, Cacio e pepe
Order: Insalata verde, cacio e pepe, chocolate budino.
Tip: Walk in at 17:00 sharp for the first seating, or join the list around 20:30 for the second wave.
New American$$$$midtown
Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi's restoration of the Seagram Pool Room runs mid-century power-lunch food in New York City. Honey-glazed duck, tableside Caesar.
Signature: Prime rib, Tableside Caesar
Order: Honey-glazed duck for two, carved at the table.
Tip: Lunch is the move; the same room without the dinner price ceiling. Dress code is enforced: no jeans, no sneakers.
Italian$$$$greenwich-village
Major Food Group's red-sauce Italian-American room on Thompson Street in New York City turns 1950s tableside service into theatre. Spicy rigatoni vodka is the order.
Signature: Spicy rigatoni vodka, Veal parmesan
Order: Spicy rigatoni vodka and the veal parmesan to share.
Tip: Reservations are notorious; the bar runs walk-ins from 17:30 and serves the full menu. Don't skip the Caesar.
French fine dining$$$$midtown
Eric Ripert's three-Michelin-star seafood room in Midtown New York City has held its stars since 2005. Tasting menu $268, mostly raw and barely-cooked fish.
Signature: Smoked salmon tartine, Black bass with herbed escabeche
Order: The Almost Raw, Barely Touched, Lightly Cooked tasting.
Tip: Lunch prix-fixe at $98 is the entry point; same kitchen, same plate, half the price of dinner.