Sichuan Chinese$$$chinatownMon-Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-22:30, Sun 12:00-22:00
Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
Signature: Cold sesame noodles, General Tso's chicken, Peking duck
Order: Cold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
Tip: The cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.
Pizzeria$$carroll-gardensWed-Mon 17:00-23:00, Tue closed
Mark Iacono's candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria in New York City turns out a coal-fired Brooklyn pie and a calzone, cash only, BYOB, no reservations.
Signature: New York slice, Charred Brooklyn pie
Order: The plain margherita, charred-crust slice.
Tip: Walk-in only. Put your name down at 17:30, then come back at 19:30; the wait is the room's whole social fabric.
American Diner$$lower-east-sideMon-Thu 08:00-23:00, Fri 08:00 - Sun 23:00 (24h Fri-Sun)
Katz's on East Houston has cured, smoked and hand-sliced pastrami in New York City since 1888. The corner-of-the-counter sandwich is the deli's whole point.
Signature: Pastrami on rye, Matzo ball soup
Order: Hand-cut pastrami on rye, mustard, half-sour pickle.
Tip: Tip the slicer a dollar when you get your ticket; a thick fatty slice samples your way and the sandwich comes built right.
Pizzeria$greenwich-villageSun-Thu 10:00-04:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-05:00
Pino Pozzuoli's Carmine Street counter has folded the canonical New York slice in New York City since 1975. Located in Greenwich Village. Priced at $.
Signature: New York slice
Order: Plain cheese slice, fresh out of the oven.
Tip: Order at the counter, eat standing at the window. Pepperoni runs out by 21:00; arrive earlier if it matters.
American Diner$$lower-east-sideDaily 08:00-16:00
Russ & Daughters has slung appetising on East Houston in New York City since 1914: hand-sliced smoked salmon, sturgeon, schmaltz herring and bagels to take.
Signature: New York bagel, Smoked salmon platter
Order: The Classic: Gaspe Nova lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on a poppy bagel.
Tip: The shop is for take-away. Sit down at Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner on Orchard for table service.
Steakhouse$$$$williamsburgMon-Thu 11:45-21:45, Fri-Sat 11:45-22:45, Sun 12:45-21:45
Peter Luger has dry-aged porterhouse on Broadway in Williamsburg, New York City since 1887. Cash or house card only, no reservations after 17:00 for walk-ins.
Signature: Porterhouse for two, Bacon, extra thick
Order: Porterhouse for two, sliced and sauced at the table.
Tip: Book at least four weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seat and the same meat.