Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
Signature dishes: Cold sesame noodles, General Tso's chicken, Peking duck
Must order: Cold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
Tip: The cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.
Address: 42 E Broadway, New York, NY 10002, New York City
Mark Iacono's candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria in New York City turns out a coal-fired Brooklyn pie and a calzone, cash only, BYOB, no reservations.
Signature: New York slice, Charred Brooklyn pie
Order: The plain margherita, charred-crust slice.
Tip: Walk-in only. Put your name down at 17:30, then come back at 19:30; the wait is the room's whole social fabric.
Katz's on East Houston has cured, smoked and hand-sliced pastrami in New York City since 1888. The corner-of-the-counter sandwich is the deli's whole point.
Signature: Pastrami on rye, Matzo ball soup
Order: Hand-cut pastrami on rye, mustard, half-sour pickle.
Tip: Tip the slicer a dollar when you get your ticket; a thick fatty slice samples your way and the sandwich comes built right.
Pino Pozzuoli's Carmine Street counter has folded the canonical New York slice in New York City since 1975. Foldable plain cheese, sold by the wedge, eaten standing.
Signature: New York slice
Order: Plain cheese slice, fresh out of the oven.
Tip: Order at the counter, eat standing at the window. Pepperoni runs out by 21:00; arrive earlier if it matters.
Russ & Daughters has slung appetising on East Houston in New York City since 1914: hand-sliced smoked salmon, sturgeon, schmaltz herring and bagels to take home.
Signature: New York bagel, Smoked salmon platter
Order: The Classic: Gaspe Nova lox, cream cheese, tomato, onion, capers on a poppy bagel.
Tip: The shop is for take-away. Sit down at Russ & Daughters Cafe around the corner on Orchard for table service.
Peter Luger has dry-aged porterhouse on Broadway in Williamsburg, New York City since 1887. Cash or house card only, no reservations after 17:00 for walk-ins.
Signature: Porterhouse for two, Bacon, extra thick
Order: Porterhouse for two, sliced and sauced at the table.
Tip: Book at least four weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seat and the same meat.
Anthony Mangieri's Orchard Street pizzeria is the editor's neapolitan pie in New York City: 60-second wood-fired bake, twelve-pizza menu, no slices.
Signature: Margherita, Cosacca
Order: The Margherita, San Marzano and fior di latte.
Tip: Six covers at the counter, ten tables, reservations open 30 days out and vanish fast. Wednesday is the longest wait.
