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RomanianLower East Side
Sammy's Roumanian reopened on Stanton Street in 2024 after the Chrystie basement closed in 2021. Romanian-Jewish steakhouse, schmaltz on every table.
OrderGarlic-rubbed skirt steak with seltzer-and-chocolate-syrup egg cream service.
TipTables are mixed at long shared boards; book the early seating by phone (646-410-2427) if you want any chance of hearing your tablemate.
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SeafoodMidtown
The Grand Central Oyster Bar has poured oysters and clam chowder beneath the Guastavino tiles of New York City's Grand Central Terminal since 1913.
OrderA cup of Manhattan clam chowder and a half-dozen East Coast oysters at the counter.
TipSit at the counter facing the open kitchen; the pan roast is theatre when made to order.
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Sichuan ChineseChinatown
Hwa Yuan on East Broadway brought Sichuan cooking to New York City Chinatown in 1968, closed in 1992, and was rebuilt by the founder's family in 2017.
OrderCold sesame noodles to start, General Tso's chicken in the founder's original sweet-and-savoury glaze.
TipThe cold sesame noodles claim to be the original American version; whether or not you buy that, order them.
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PizzeriaCarroll Gardens
Mark Iacono's candlelit Carroll Gardens pizzeria in New York City turns out a coal-fired Brooklyn pie and a calzone, cash only, BYOB, no reservations.
OrderThe plain margherita, charred-crust slice.
TipWalk-in only. Put your name down at 17:30, then come back at 19:30; the wait is the room's whole social fabric.
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American DinerLower East Side
Katz's on East Houston has cured, smoked and hand-sliced pastrami in New York City since 1888. The corner-of-the-counter sandwich is the deli's whole point.
OrderHand-cut pastrami on rye, mustard, half-sour pickle.
TipTip the slicer a dollar when you get your ticket; a thick fatty slice samples your way and the sandwich comes built right.
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PizzeriaGreenwich Village
Pino Pozzuoli's Carmine Street counter has folded the canonical New York slice in New York City since 1975. Located in Greenwich Village. Priced at $.
OrderPlain cheese slice, fresh out of the oven.
TipOrder at the counter, eat standing at the window. Pepperoni runs out by 21:00; arrive earlier if it matters.