The old red-light docks turned dining quarter. Home of Time Out Market, the pink street and the city's natural-wine scene.
Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.
Signature: Acorda de marisco, Chocolate mousse
Order: Acorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.
Comoba in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a calm plant-forward cafe on Rua da Boavista, matcha pancakes and sourdough toasts in a bright tiled room with strong wifi.
Signature drink: Matcha latte and matcha pancakes
Cafe Janis in Lisbon near Time Out Market: a flower-covered Cais do Sodre terrace pouring strong cappuccino, with a goat-cheese shakshuka.
Signature drink: Cappuccino, with a goat-cheese shakshuka
Manteigaria's Mercado da Ribeira stall in Lisbon: the Time Out Market pastel-de-nata window, baked every twenty minutes, 1.50 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata, eaten standing at the counter
Vino Vero in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a Venetian-import natural-wine bar pouring boutique Italian and Portuguese growers, no booking, no reservation.
Signature pour: Frank Cornelissen Munjebel Etna rosso
Wine focus: Natural and biodynamic Italian and Portuguese
Food: Italian charcuterie, cheese and crostini
O Bom, O Mau e O Vilao in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a velvet-armchair cocktail and ginjinha bar named for the spaghetti western, open late seven nights.
Signature drink: Ginjinha or a Negroni in a 1960s spaghetti-western room
Food: Snacks
Pensao Amor in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a former brothel turned multi-room cabaret bar, burlesque on weekends, espresso martinis at the gilded counter.
Signature drink: Espresso martini and burlesque
Food: Snacks
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: a former fishing-tackle shop turned conservas bar, walls stacked with tins, served on bread with butter and beer.
Try: Conservas, Portuguese tinned fish boards
Time Out Market in Lisbon's Mercado da Ribeira: 26 restaurants, 8 bars and counters from Avillez, Castro e Silva and Marlene Vieira at long shared tables.
Mercado da Ribeira's original fish and produce hall in Lisbon: open since 1882, sixty stalls of fish, fruit and vegetables next to the Time Out food hall.
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: tinned-fish boards from 6 to 10 euros, walls stacked with conservas, beer in a sleeve, outdoor seating until 02:00.
Try: Tinned fish on bread with butter
Cafe Janis in Lisbon near Time Out Market: a flower-covered Cais do Sodre terrace pouring strong cappuccino, with the famed goat-cheese shakshuka.
Order: Goat-cheese shakshuka with sourdough bread.
Comoba in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a calm plant-forward cafe on Rua da Boavista, matcha pancakes and sourdough toasts in a bright tiled room with strong wifi.
Order: Matcha pancakes with cashew cream and berries.
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: a conservas counter open until 02:00, tinned fish on bread and beer at the outdoor tables, after-club staple.
Try: Tinned fish on bread, beer