The old red-light docks turned dining quarter. Home of Time Out Market, the pink street and the city's natural-wine scene.
Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.
Signature: Acorda de marisco, Chocolate mousse
Order: Acorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.
Comoba in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a calm plant-forward cafe on Rua da Boavista, matcha pancakes and sourdough toasts in a bright tiled room with strong wifi.
Signature drink: Matcha latte and matcha pancakes
Cafe Janis in Lisbon near Time Out Market: a flower-covered Cais do Sodre brunch terrace, strong cappuccinos and a daily goat-cheese shakshuka plate.
Signature drink: Cappuccino, with a goat-cheese shakshuka
Manteigaria's Mercado da Ribeira stall in Lisbon: the Time Out Market pastel-de-nata window, baked every twenty minutes, 1.50 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata, eaten standing at the counter
Vino Vero in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a Venetian-import natural-wine bar pouring boutique Italian and Portuguese growers, no booking, no reservation.
Signature pour: Frank Cornelissen Munjebel Etna rosso
Wine focus: Natural and biodynamic Italian and Portuguese
Food: Italian charcuterie, cheese and crostini
O Bom, O Mau e O Vilao in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a velvet-armchair cocktail and ginjinha bar named for the spaghetti western, open late seven nights.
Signature drink: Ginjinha or a Negroni in a 1960s spaghetti-western room
Food: Snacks
Pensao Amor in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a former brothel turned multi-room cabaret bar, burlesque on weekends, espresso martinis at the gilded counter.
Signature drink: Espresso martini and burlesque
Food: Snacks
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: a former fishing-tackle shop turned conservas bar since 2010, walls stacked with tins, served on bread with butter.
Try: Conservas, Portuguese tinned fish boards
Aloma's Time Out Market stall in Lisbon: the Campo de Ourique champion's outpost inside the food hall, two-time best pastel de nata in Lisbon, 1.50 euros.
Try: Pastel de nata at Time Out Market
Time Out Market in Lisbon's Mercado da Ribeira: 26 restaurants, 8 bars and counters from Avillez, Castro e Silva and Marlene Vieira at long shared tables.
Mercado da Ribeira's original fish and produce hall in Lisbon: open since 1882, sixty stalls of fish, fruit and vegetables next to the Time Out food hall.
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: tinned-fish boards from 6 to 10 euros, walls stacked with conservas, beer in a sleeve, outdoor seating until 02:00.
Try: Tinned fish on bread with butter
Cafe Janis in Lisbon near Time Out Market: a flower-covered Cais do Sodre terrace pouring strong cappuccino, with the famed goat-cheese shakshuka.
Order: Goat-cheese shakshuka with sourdough bread.
Comoba in Lisbon's Cais do Sodre: a calm plant-forward cafe on Rua da Boavista, matcha pancakes and sourdough toasts in a bright tiled room with strong wifi.
Order: Matcha pancakes with cashew cream and berries.
Sol e Pesca on Lisbon's pink street: a conservas counter open until 02:00, tinned fish on bread and beer at the outdoor tables, after-club staple.
Try: Tinned fish on bread, beer
MusicBox on Rua Nova do Carvalho is the vaulted-arch club under the Pink Street in Cais do Sodré, programming live concerts and DJ sets across rock, indie.
Tip: Doors Monday to Saturday from 23:00-06:00; the Jameson Urban Routes festival lands here every autumn. Cais do Sodré station is one block; the line forms before the live set.
B.Leza on Cais da Ribeira Nova is Lisbon's Lusophone-Africa dance club, programming Cape Verdean funaná, Angolan kizomba, semba, kuduro and Afrobeats.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Sunday from 23:00; closed Monday. The dancefloor fills late, around 01:00, and the partner-dance crowd is generous to beginners.
Povo on Rua Nova do Carvalho runs the Cais do Sodré pink street as a contemporary tasca, programming young fadistas in residency between 20:30 and 23:00.
Tip: Fado sessions Tuesday to Sunday between 20:30 and 23:00; the residency rotates emerging singers. Walk-in friendly midweek, weekend tables benefit from a booking.
Pensão Amor on the Cais do Sodré pink street is the 18th-century brothel reborn as a multi-floor bar, with burlesque shows, pole-dance room.
Tip: Bar open from noon daily; burlesque, drag and pole-dance shows after 22:00. The pole-dance room is gold and leopard, the rooftop terrace overlooks Rua Nova do Carvalho.
Vago on Rua das Gaivotas in Santos is a Japanese-kissa-inspired listening bar in a converted semi-basement, tube amps, horn speakers and a vinyl-only.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday 19:00-02:00; closed Sunday and Monday. The room is small and the music is the focus; conversation stays low between cuts.
A Tabacaria on Rua de São Paulo is the old tobacconist turned cocktail tasca in Cais do Sodré, tile facade and wooden counters intact, with a short list.
Tip: Walk-in only; the room is narrow, the back bar is the late seat. Open daily from 15:00-02:00, weekends to 03:00. Order the Old Fashioned or whichever the bartender suggests.
O Bom O Mau e O Vilão on Rua do Alecrim is the labyrinth cocktail bar named for the Sergio Leone western, several rooms of sofas, low lamps and a weekly jazz.
Tip: Open daily from 19:00-02:00, weekends to 03:00. The back rooms are the conversation seats; live jazz Wednesday and Thursday nights, DJ sets weekends.