Carbonara
Photo: Javier Somoza · CC BY-SA 4.0

Carbonara is Rome's defining pasta: spaghetti or rigatoni tossed in a creamy emulsion of raw egg yolks, grated pecorino romano, black pepper and crisp guanciale (cured pork jowl). No cream, ever.

The carbonara took shape in Rome between 1944 and 1950, the most-told origin story crediting the Allied troops who arrived in the city with bacon and powdered eggs that Roman cooks blended with their black pepper and pecorino tradition. The first written recipe was published in La Cucina Italiana in 1954 by Renato Gualandi. From the 1960s onward, the dish replaced guanciale (cured pork jowl) for the bacon, and the rule against cream was codified by the Accademia Italiana della Cucina in 1985. Felice a Testaccio, Roscioli and Armando al Pantheon all serve canonical versions; modern fine-dining rooms like Marco Martini reinterpret the egg-and-cheese emulsion as a smoked custard.

5 editor picks for Carbonara in Rome, ranked by editorial score. All Rome signature dishes · Carbonara across every city.

Salumeria Roscioli ★ 4.8

€€€ItalianCentro Storico

Roscioli in Rome's Centro Storico runs deli, restaurant and wine cellar as one room. Kitchen leans roman, salumeria. At Via dei Giubbonari 21.

OrderThe carbonara, the burrata with anchovies, and any cheese flight from the counter.

TipBook three weeks ahead for dinner. Lunch is the easier seating and the same kitchen runs both services.

Armando al Pantheon ★ 4.8

€€Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico

Armando al Pantheon in Rome has cooked the four Roman pastas and the quinto quarto canon since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon. Located in Centro Storico.

OrderCacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, and the abbacchio when it's on the carte.

TipBookings open exactly two months ahead on the website. Walk-up tables exist but only for lone diners and only at 12:30.

Felice a Testaccio ★ 4.6

€€Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.

OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.

TipBook a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.

Da Enzo al 29 ★ 4.4

€€Roman TrattoriaTrastevere

Da Enzo al 29 in Rome's Trastevere is the 30-seat trattoria with the longest queue in town. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via dei Vascellari 29.

OrderCarbonara, carciofo alla giudia in season (March to May), tiramisu to finish.

TipNo bookings for parties under four. Queue from 18:45 for a 19:00 seating or you will wait an hour.

Antico Arco ★ 4.1

€€€Modern ItalianTrastevere

Antico Arco on Rome's Gianicolo hill is the modern-Roman dining room with a panoramic terrace. Located in Trastevere. Kitchen leans modern italian.

OrderThe carbonara, filetto al Barolo, and the molten chocolate tortino with vanilla gelato.

TipBook a sunset table on the terrace three weeks out. Tram 8 from Trastevere drops at the foot of the hill.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Carbonara makes more sense with someone from Rome explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Taste Carbonara with a local in Rome

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