Ranked by TableJourney editorial score.
Gricia is the fourth Roman pasta: rigatoni tossed in a sauce of crisp guanciale, rendered fat, grated pecorino romano and cracked black pepper. Often called the carbonara without the egg.
The gricia is the oldest of the four Roman pastas, predating tomatoes (and thus amatriciana) by centuries. The dish takes its name either from Grisciano, a hamlet near Amatrice in the Lazio mountains, or from the grici, the bread merchants who supplied flour and pasta to Roman trattorias before unification. The recipe is guanciale, pecorino, black pepper and pasta water with no tomato. The rigatoni shape (or in some kitchens mezze maniche) catches the pecorino emulsion in its ridges. Flavio al Velavevodetto, Trattoria Pennestri and Felice a Testaccio all serve canonical versions; the dish is considered the Roman pasta technique's purest test.
4 editor picks for Rigatoni alla gricia in Rome, ranked by editorial score. All Rome signature dishes · Rigatoni alla gricia across every city.
Sarah Cicolini's Santo Palato in Rome reads the quinto quarto offal grammar as modern technique. Located in Esquilino. Kitchen leans modern roman.
OrderThe trippa alla romana, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and a glass of Cesanese.
TipBook three weeks ahead; the room has 35 covers. Lunch is the calmer service.
Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.
OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.
TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.
Trattoria Pennestri in Rome's Ostiense, opened 2017 by Tommaso Pennestri, runs the Roman canon with farmer-named meat sourcing. Priced at €€.
OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, pajata when it's on, and any seasonal antipasto from the chalkboard.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is much easier to book than the 20:30 dinner seating.
Felice a Testaccio in Rome has served the Testaccio working-quarter cucina since 1936. Kitchen leans roman trattoria. At Via Mastro Giorgio 29.
OrderThe tonnarelli cacio e pepe tossed at the table, then saltimbocca alla romana and tiramisu.
TipBook a fortnight ahead on the website. Lunch is calmer; the 21:00 dinner sitting is the longest wait.
Rigatoni alla gricia makes more sense with someone from Rome explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.
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