Street food€€testaccio
Mordi e Vai is tucked inside the mercato di testaccio at box 15, sergio esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
Why locals love it: Tucked inside the Mercato di Testaccio at box 15, Sergio Esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
Tip: Closed Sunday. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.
Italian€€testaccio
Piatto Romano in Rome: Small-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
Why locals love it: Small-room Testaccio trattoria where the Cocco family cooks the four Roman pastas to the rulebook with zero menu twists.
Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Book a week ahead; the dining room holds 30 covers.
Italian€€centocelle
180g Pizzeria Romana is a italian room in Centocelle. Closed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.
Why locals love it: Jacopo Mercuro's modern Roman pizzeria sits in Centocelle, the eastern fringe of the city, away from the Centro Storico tourist trails.
Tip: Closed Monday. Book a week ahead. Metro C to Pigneto then 10 min walk; or 12 euros cab from centre.
Italian€€monti
Trecca is off the tor pignattara axis, trecca's small-room trattoria has run the lazio mountain cucina canon since 2020 under most tourists' notice.
Why locals love it: Off the Tor Pignattara axis, Trecca's small-room trattoria has run the Lazio mountain cucina canon since 2020 under most tourists' notice.
Tip: Closed Tuesday; dinner only Mon, Wed-Sun. Book a week ahead; small front room.
Italian€€esquilino
Sarah Cicolini's San Giovanni trattoria from 2017, Abruzzese cooking forequarters and offal; trippa alla romana, NYT-praised; moved to bigger room in 2025.
Why locals love it: Off the Re di Roma metro stop in the Esquiline edge, Sarah Cicolini's modern Roman kitchen runs trippa and pasta under most tourist itineraries.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day, Monday dinner. Book three weeks ahead for the 35-cover room.
French bistro€€centro-storico
Enoteca Corsi is a french bistro room in Centro Storico. Cash only. Open lunch only; closed Sunday. The 12:30 seating runs busiest; arrive 12:15 for a table.
Why locals love it: Lunch-only and cash-only since 1937, this working-day trattoria runs the city's most traditional bistro lunch in the Centro Storico but stops at 15:00.
Tip: Cash only. Open lunch only; closed Sunday. The 12:30 seating runs busiest; arrive 12:15 for a table.