Neapolitan pizza€forcella
Da Michele in Naples' Forcella has baked margherita and marinara since 1870, the city's defining pizza counter. The Eat Pray Love queue still wraps the block at 13:00.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: Pizza margherita and pizza marinara, the only two on the carte for 150 years.
Tip: Take a numbered ticket from the door and wait outside. The classic margherita is 5 euros 50; cash preferred.
Neapolitan pizza€€centro-storico
Gino Sorbillo's headquarters on Via dei Tribunali in Naples is the third-generation family pizzeria, with 21 siblings carrying the dough across four city counters since 1935.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara, Pizza fritta
Order: The margherita with San Marzano DOP and the seasonal special with friarielli.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:00 for the shortest queue. The pizza fritta at Lievito Madre two doors down handles overflow.
Neapolitan pizza€€chiaia
Ciro Salvo's 50 Kalo in Naples' Mergellina edge of Chiaia ranks among the world's top three pizzerias on the 50 Top Pizza list, with a 72-hour fermentation dough at the counter.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara con verdure
Order: Margherita with San Marzano DOP and the marinara with Cetara anchovies and oregano.
Tip: Book on the website a fortnight ahead for dinner. Lunch is the calmer service; the long dough proof is the signature.
Neapolitan pizza€materdei
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza (Sophia Loren's choice on screen) the unmissable order alongside the canonical margherita.
Signature: Montanara fried pizza, Pizza margherita, Angioletti
Order: Montanara fried pizza, margherita and angioletti dough fritters to start.
Tip: Closed Monday lunch; otherwise open daily 12:00 to 24:00. No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue.
Neapolitan pizza, fritti€centro-storico
Di Matteo on Via dei Tribunali in Naples has fried pizza, frittatine and crocchè from the streetside window since 1936; Bill Clinton's 1994 lunch stop sits in the legend.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza fritta, Crocchè di patate
Order: The pizza fritta from the window, then pizza margherita inside and crocchè di patate.
Tip: Open daily 10:00 to 24:00. Cash preferred at the window; sit-down service runs upstairs.
Neapolitan pizza€€toledo
Brandi off Via Toledo in Naples claims the 1889 invention of the pizza margherita by Raffaele Esposito for Queen Margherita of Savoy. The queen's thank-you letter still hangs in the dining room.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: Pizza margherita, the canonical version named for the queen in 1889.
Tip: Open daily 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:00 to 24:00. Book ahead for groups; the original Esposito plaque sits at the entrance.
Neapolitan pizza, fine pizza€€€sanita
Ciro Oliva's Concettina ai Tre Santi in Naples' Sanita is the modern pizza fine-dining room, with tasting menus of six small pizzas and a wine pairing in the historic 1951 family room.
Signature: Tasting pizza menu, Pizza margherita, Pizza marinara
Order: The five-pizza tasting menu and the modern margherita with three tomato cuts.
Tip: Book on the website three weeks ahead. The tasting menu runs 45 euros; the historic counter still serves the classic pizzas.
Modern Campanian€€€€chiaia
Lino Scarallo's Palazzo Petrucci on Posillipo Hill in Naples holds one Michelin star and the seafront cliff terrace over the Bay, the city's most-told modern Campanian tasting room.
Signature: Lasagnetta di mozzarella di bufala, Risotto alla pescatora
Order: Lasagnetta di mozzarella di bufala and risotto alla pescatora with Bay views.
Tip: Book three weeks ahead via the website; the 145-euro tasting menu is the entry point. Terrace tables go first.
Neapolitan trattoria, seafood€€chiaia
Umberto in Naples' Chiaia has run the family room since 1916, with the tubettoni do treddeta (3-fingered seafood pasta) and the spaghetti alle vongole anchoring the historic carte.
Signature: Spaghetti alle vongole, Tubettoni do treddeta, Pizza
Order: Tubettoni do treddeta (the house specialty since 1916) and spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat 12:00 to 15:30 and 19:30 to 23:30; closed Sunday. Book a week ahead via the website for weekends.
Neapolitan trattoria€€centro-storico
Mimi alla Ferrovia near Naples Central Station has cooked the canon since 1943, with the linguine all'astice (lobster pasta) the dish Sophia Loren and the city's politicians keep ordering.
Signature: Linguine all'astice, Ragu napoletano, Pasta alla genovese
Order: Linguine all'astice, ragu napoletano della domenica and pasta alla genovese.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book a fortnight ahead via Resy for weekends; the lobster pasta runs around 35 euros.
Neapolitan ragu specialist€€centro-storico
Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples is the modern trattoria built entirely around the Neapolitan Sunday ragu: paccheri, ziti spezzati and the bread-dunking ritual served daily noon to 24:00.
Signature: Ragu napoletano, Paccheri al ragu, Polpettone
Order: Paccheri al ragu napoletano, then bread to mop the sauce. Polpettone for the table.
Tip: No bookings; arrive 12:30 or 19:30 for the shortest queue. Three Tandem rooms across the centro storico share the carte.
Neapolitan trattoria, pizza€€chiaia
Da Ettore in Naples' Santa Lucia has invented the pagnottiello (stuffed pizza-bread sandwich) since 1955, plus a full carte of seafood pastas and the canonical pizza margherita.
Signature: Pagnottiello stuffed pizza bread, Spaghetti alle vongole
Order: Pagnottiello stuffed with prosciutto and provola, spaghetti alle vongole.
Tip: Closed Sunday all day. Book ahead for weekends; the pagnottiello runs around 9 euros.
Neapolitan trattoria, working-class€quartieri-spagnoli
Nennella in Naples' Quartieri Spagnoli runs the most theatrical service in town: shouted orders, plastic stools, 13-euro three-course lunch. The Sunday queue starts at 11:30 around the block.
Signature: Pasta e patate con provola, Polpette al sugo, Pasta alla genovese
Order: Pasta e patate con provola, polpette al sugo, the daily Quartieri Spagnoli antipasto.
Tip: No bookings, cash only. Arrive by 12:00 for lunch or 19:00 for dinner. Closed Sunday all day.
Neapolitan pizza€€chiaia
Veridico in Naples' Vomero area runs a top-30 Italian pizza counter on the 50 Top list, with a 60-hour fermentation dough and a vegetable-led pizza carte alongside the classic margherita.
Signature: Pizza margherita, Pizza con fiori di zucca, Pizza marinara
Order: Pizza con fiori di zucca, margherita with mozzarella di bufala, marinara.
Tip: Book a week ahead on the website for weekends. The Sunday-only specials run with seasonal Campanian vegetables.
Modern Neapolitan tasting€€€€chiaia
Gianluca D'Agostino's Veritas in Naples' Chiaia is the one-Michelin-star room reopened after a 2023 refit, with a 95-euro modern Campanian tasting menu and a 16-table dining room.
Signature: Tasting menu, Risotto alla pescatora, Lamb
Order: The seven-course Tradition tasting menu with the lamb and risotto pescatora courses.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book a fortnight ahead. The lunch tasting at 65 euros is the value entry.
Neapolitan seafood, classic€€€chiaia
La Cantinella in Naples' Santa Lucia waterfront has run the classic seafood carte since 1971, with the Bay of Naples view, spaghetti alle vongole and crudo di mare anchoring lunch.
Signature: Spaghetti con le vongole, Crudo di mare, Risotto alla pescatora
Order: Spaghetti con le vongole, crudo di mare, risotto alla pescatora.
Tip: Closed Sunday. Book three weeks ahead via the website. Bay-view terrace tables go first.
Neapolitan, upscale traditional€€€chiaia
Ristorante Caruso on Via Partenope in Naples sits on the rooftop of the Grand Hotel Vesuvio over Castel dell'Ovo, with a classic seafood carte and the city's named-table tradition.
Signature: Linguine all'astice, Spaghetti alle vongole, Tagliata di tonno
Order: Linguine all'astice with Bay-view service, spaghetti alle vongole veraci.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead; the rooftop terrace tables face the Castel dell'Ovo. Jacket suggested for the dining room.
Neapolitan deli, contemporary€€vomero
Salumeria Upnea on Vomero in Naples is the deli-bistro hybrid pouring Campania natural wines, with salumi-and-cheese boards and a daily-changing pasta from the kitchen behind the counter.
Signature: Salumi e formaggi, Pasta alla genovese, Caciocavallo impiccato
Order: The salumi flight, pasta alla genovese, caciocavallo impiccato with grilled bread.
Tip: Closed Monday. Open daily 12:00 to 23:00 otherwise. Walk-in counter; bookings for the back room.
Modern Mediterranean, Michelin€€€€chiaia
George Restaurant at the Grand Hotel Parker's in Naples holds one Michelin star for Domenico Candela's modern Mediterranean tasting menu, with the Posillipo and Vesuvius view from the room.
Signature: Tasting menu, Seafood carpaccio, Pasta
Order: The seven-course tasting menu with the seafood and the modern lamb course.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead via the hotel. The 145-euro tasting is the entry point.
Italian-Japanese fusion, Michelin€€€€chiaia
Aragawa in Naples' Vomero edge holds one Michelin star for an Italian-Japanese fusion tasting menu by Pasquale Palamaro, with Kobe beef, modern crudo and Campanian seasonal vegetables.
Signature: Tasting menu, Kobe beef tartare, Risotto
Order: The tasting menu with the Kobe tartare and the cured fish course.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Book three weeks ahead via Resy or the restaurant phone line.